Just a 15-minute drive outside of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, is a remarkable Jesuit sanctuary – the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, dubbed the “Sistine Chapel of Mexico.”
The Sanctuary of Atotonilco
Dedicated to Jesus, the large church, with several attached chapels, was built in the 18th century. On the outside, the white church complex is quite plain.
Talk about an explosion of color and art.
The walls and ceilings are almost completely decorated with oil paintings, poems, sculptures and frescoes in riotous colors (vivid blues, reds, green and black).
Local Indian artists Miguel Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre and Rodriguez Juárez painted the murals over a period of 30 years in Mexican Baroque style (the artists painted Spanish conquerors instead of Roman soldiers).
You see mythical creatures, flowers, gilded baroque virgins, horned devils, red-robed priests and scenes depicting the life of Christ.
We visited the sanctuary with Italian architect Roberto Burillo Eguia Lis.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 1996, at the instigation of Roberto and his partner, the World Monuments Fund added the sanctuary to its list of “100 Most Endangered Monuments.”
With seed money from American Express and more than $100,000 US from the state of Guanajuato (home to some wonderful quirky museums), the building’s facade and murals were inspected, analyzed and cleaned, and restoration work was started.
In July, 2008, as a result of the efforts of Roberto and his partner, the Sanctuary of Atotonilco was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Images are still being authentically restored under Roberto’s guidance, retaining their centuries-old character. “We’re restoring in a way that doesn’t kill the ghosts,” Roberto explained as he showed us around.
We also heard pilgrims singing hymns and saw Mexican nuns washing the altars.
After, we wandered around the little souvenir stands outside selling corn whips.
“Pilgrims still come from central Mexico and self-flagellate with corn whips,” said Roberto. “The town here is totally authentic and nothing has changed in 300 years.”
Apart from its fantastic mural work, the Sanctuary of Atotonilco is also noteworthy from an historical perspective. It was from this church that heroic Father Miguel Hidalgo galloped off to San Miguel de Allende in 1810, starting the revolt that ultimately led to Mexico’s independence from Spain.
You can visit the sanctuary on your own or ask for a guided tour from the San Miguel de Allende tourism office.
What do you think of these frescoes? Have any churches, mosques or other religious buildings caught your eye lately?
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We’re Janice and George Mucalov, professional award-winning travel writers, sharing tales of luxury travel with a twist of adventure.