Review: Chiawa and Old Mondoro Nail Safari Glamping in Zambia
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It’s like a scene from “Out of Africa.”
Except that instead of Karen Blixen’s bush tents in Kenya, Chiawa Camp hugs the Zambezi River in Zambia.
Unforgettable elephants are the big draw at Chiawa. And hippos, crocodiles, Cape buffalo, baboons and even the occasional lion.
But Chiawa also nails the African, luxury-in-the-bush, glamping experience.
We stayed several days at both Chiawa and its sister camp, Old Mondoro. Here’s our Chiawa Camp review, along with our Old Mondoro review.
Contents: Safari in Lower Zambezi National Park
Chiawa Camp review
It was the first safari camp to open in Lower Zambezi National Park back in 1991.
Today, Chiawa safari camp is still owned and operated by the conservation-minded Cumings family.
And it’s the best of the Lower Zambezi lodges for getting your game-viewing fix of river-based wildlife (rated #1 on TripAdvisor).
Chiawa tents
Perched on stilts, Chiawa’s nine deluxe permanent tents are made of timber, reeds and canvas.
And they’re all about bush luxury.
Think claw-footed tubs, colonial-style furnishings, plush king-size beds with Egyptian cotton linens and indoor and outdoor showers.
There’s even a pool and WiFi!
One tent, the new Safari Suite, is a family villa.
It has a king bedroom, a living area-cum-lounge that converts into a second bedroom, its own private pool and a gazebo.
Mmm… What’s for dinner?
Dinners are four-course plated meals served by candlelight.
Perhaps potato rosti with smoked salmon, cream cheese and a drizzle of maple syrup to start? This could be followed by cream of broccoli soup, then a choice of chicken stuffed with sun-dried tomato and feta, accompanied by cinnamon rice and beans, or home-made pasta.
And for dessert? Maybe a very decadent caramelized sugar pie.
Zambezi safari activities
As for activities, game drives are mixed up with guided canoeing excursions, where you explore myriad river channels.
You can also enjoy a romantic champagne lunch on a small aluminum boat while drifting down the Zambezi, past hundreds of snorting hippos.
Old Mondoro
A one-hour speedboat ride downriver takes you to Old Mondoro, Chiawa’s satellite wilderness camp.
With just four tents, Old Mondoro is one of the last true bush camps in Africa.
Think…
An intimate and raw safari experience – a safari on steroids.
But with all the luxuries you expect in the wild.
The tents are open-sided (the canvas is rolled down at night).
They feature indoor loos plus outdoor showers and splash tubs overlooking the Zambezi River.
Just be aware you might have to jump out of your bathtub if an elephant turns up to drink the bathwater!
A seasoned safari-goer we met at Old Mondoro – who amazingly had done some 50 safaris all over Africa – raved that Old Mondoro was her favorite place in the whole African continent for a pure, authentic safari escape.
Canoeing the Lower Zambezi
“Welcome to canoeing on the Zambezi River, our most dangerous activity at Chiawa,” said Paul, the safari camp’s senior guide, when we showed up for our first activity at Old Mondoro.
“But there’s only been one serious incident with a crocodile in these parts.”
A croc pulled a girl out from the front of a dugout canoe on the other side of the river five years ago.
Hmmm…
We passed on the chance to back out, put our faith – and lives – in the supposedly-stable Canadian canoes, and hopped in.
As it turned out, we did see crocs galore. And loads of hippos.
The hippos are actually more dangerous than the crocs, because they can tip canoes.
But we were also treated to a tableaux of amazing birdlife – African jacana, southern ground hornbill, beautiful blue-cheeked bee-eaters, kingfishers and more.
The river scenes were surprisingly peaceful, and the canoeing was a highlight of our Zambezi safari.
Elephants galore
And what about those elephants?
About 2,000 pachyderms inhabit the Lower Zambezi National Park – and you’ll see hundreds of them up close when staying at Chiawa safari camp and Old Mondoro.
You might not even have to leave for stupendous sightings.
Big long-tusked bulls are frequent visitors to the unfenced Chiawa and Old Mondoro camps.
Sometimes they wander right by the al fresco dining veranda at breakfast time, almost within touching distance.
Just don’t spill your coffee if they thrust their trunks at you and wave.
Old Mondoro and Chiawa Camp: More info
Other Zambia safaris
We found the “real” Africa we were seeking in Zambia.
We loved it so much that after visiting Chiawa and Old Mondoro, we returned to the country for a second safari.
Off the radar for most tourists, Zambia offers some of the continent’s most authentic and wild safari experiences.
You’ll probably sleep in a tent without A/C (albeit a luxurious one).
But the wildlife parks teem with animals, and your up-close-and-personal animal viewing will rival what you see on National Geographic TV shows.
Victoria Falls
Zambia also boasts majestic Victoria Falls, the world’s largest waterfall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Zambia/Zimbabwe border.
Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa
To make the most of your Zambia visit, we suggest combining safaris at two main parks, South Luangwa National Park and Lower Zambezi National Park, along with a stay in the tourist town of Livingstone to explore the Falls.
Time + Tide collection in South Luangwa
In South Luangwa, we recommend trying a walking safari at the Norman Carr (Time + Tide) camps. Don’t worry, you can also do regular game drives as well.
For pure luxe, be sure to stay at Chinzombo safari camp, where your “tent” comes with a private pool.
Puku Ridge in South Luangwa
Chiawa also has a new camp in South Luangwa National park, Puku Ridge – a collaboration between the Cumings family (owners of Chiawa and Old Mondoro) and Chichele Safaris.
Staying at Puku Ridge would allow you to create a seamless Zambia itinerary through Chiawa that covers both the Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa.
Love this Zambia safari post? Then pin it!
Experience more of Africa!
A river safari: Grunting hippos! Ellies at sunset! A river safari on the elegant Zambezi Queen is unlike any other kind of safari.
Cape Town, South Africa: Hiking up Table Mountain isn’t exactly a walk in the park. But the views are astounding!
Stone Town, Zanzibar: Discover 17 spell-binding things to do in Stone Town.
Our top travel tips and resources
General trip planning: TripAdvisor is a helpful starting point, offering loads of user reviews on hotels, restaurants and things to do.
Hotels: Booking.com is our go-to for scoring a “wow” hotel – or at least a decent one – often at lower rates than the hotel’s own website. We especially like Booking’s flexible cancellation policy! (You may prefer Expedia for booking hotels in the U.S. or Mexico.)
Vacation homes, condos and rentals: We prefer and use Vrbo (Vacation Rentals by Owner).
Flights: For the cheapest flights, search on Google Flights or Expedia. (Just be aware Expedia tickets are often non-refundable. If you want more flexibility, it’s usually worth booking directly with the airline, even if it costs a bit more.)
Airport lounge access: We love (and have) Priority Pass for comfy lounge seats, free snacks and drinks, complimentary WiFi and sometimes even showers and spa services!
Tours: For the best local food, walking and other guided tours, plus skip-the-line tickets to attractions, check out Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and GetYourGuide.
Car rental: Renting a car is often a great way to explore off the beaten path. Discover Cars searches car rental companies so you get the lowest rates.
eSIMS: Stay connected affordably with Airalo eSIMS covering 200+ countries and trusted by 10 million+ users, including us! (No more huge roaming bills!)
Travel insurance: SafetyWing is designed for frequent travelers, long-term adventurers and digital nomads. It covers medical expenses, lost checked luggage, trip interruption and more. We also have and recommend Medjet for global air medical transportation.
Travel gear: See our travel shop to find the best luggage, accessories and other travel gear. (We suggest these comfy travel sandals for city walking, the beach and kicking about.)
Need more help planning your trip? Check out our travel tips and resources guide for airline booking tips, ways to save money, how to find great hotels and other crazy useful trip planning info.
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Photo credits: 5, 11, 12, 16 to 19 © Janice and George Mucalov, SandInMySuitcase | Other photos courtesy Chiawa
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