Costa Rica’s Secret Papagayo Peninsula (and a Golf Buggy Ride by Moonlight)
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We’re on Costa Rica’s Papagayo Peninsula, tootling around in our golf buggy by the light of a full moon.
We have a date with some mango margaritas at The Dive Bar by the Marina Papagayo.
Our two-person buggy putters along slowly on the wide brick-paved road.
But we’re not worried. Few cars drive around the hilly tree-covered Papagayo Peninsula.

Costa Rica’s Papagayo Peninsula

There are 15 miles of coastline, with more than 31 pristine beaches on both sides of the Papagayo Peninsula catching the salty breeze.
But this exclusive guarded community is still a bit of a Costa Rica secret.
So far, just three hotels – the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo, Hyatt’s Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort and Planet Hollywood Beach Resort – have been built here, along with a handful of condo and villa properties.

Much of the Papagayo Peninsula is undeveloped, and by law, 70% will remain untouched as a protected sanctuary.
There’s little chance our buggy will hold anyone up on the road!
Scenic beauty of the Papagayo Peninsula

As we meander along – our buggy gamely puffing its way up and down hills – we’re struck once again by the wild and natural beauty of the Papagayo Peninsula.
First take: From the covered deck of our vacation condo (really a one-level villa that happens to be attached to other villas), the blue of the ocean yawns beyond an expanse of green.
No other signs of man’s footprint blot the view – except for a hint of a well-tended golfcourse below and, way in the distance, the marina’s sailboats.
(This is the marina we’re puttering to this evening – Bari, our vacation home’s expat concierge, said earlier that with a full charge, our buggy should get us there and back. We’re crossing fingers!)
Walks

And then on our early morning walks – before the fierce sun has sucked the last traces of cool air from the land – we’re greeted by troupes of agile Capuchin monkeys navigating the trees beside the road.
One morning, we veer off from our “normal” route to the Four Seasons and walk along a coastal trail connecting two windswept beaches instead.
We meet not another person.

The utter peace and quiet – being surrounded only by nature – is salve for souls normally bruised by the daily onslaught of Twitter and technology.
Prieta Beach

Prieta Beach, where we hang out at the private beach club during the day, is another surprise.
Volcanic grey sand, soft as powder between the toes. Warm ocean water and a gentle sloping beach. The occasional white-nosed coati (like a raccoon with a long white nose) checking in to say “hello.”
And hardly any people!

How many beaches are there in the world which are almost perfect?
Beaches where you can read or snooze on a thickly cushioned teak lounger, under the shade of leafy trees, with just the sound of lapping waves soothing the ears (no disruptive “cool” pool music) – but with discreet drink and food service at your fingertips, yet few other people to spoil the “get away from it all” feel?

Recommended reading: Check out these 21 prettiest beaches in the world!
The Dive Bar

So, do we make it to The Dive Bar?
Yes, indeed!

We enjoy our mango margaritas and try “patacones” (warm fried plantains) for the first time.

Guided by the moon’s bright rays (and flashlights we shine in the hopes of spotting occasional wildlife, like small local deer), our buggy lives up to its promise.
And with an overnight charge, it lives to see another day ferrying us around this Papagayo paradise…

Where to stay on the Papagayo Peninsula
Luxury condo or villa

Don’t get us wrong – we’re Four Seasons fans who’ve been happily pampered at the Four Seasons in Bora Bora, Bali and elsewhere around the world.
But for less than the price of a one-bedroom suite at Papagayo’s Four Seasons, you can enjoy a spacious, art-filled, 3-bed/3-bath luxury condo villa from Papagayo Luxury Villas (like we enjoyed).

Jane Moore, president of Papagayo Luxury Villas, has several villas in her portfolio you can choose from.
Some are 7,000- to 10,000 sq. ft. celeb-worthy mansions – among the world’s swankiest villas with private pools! (And, yes, celebrities have stayed in some of these, but Jane isn’t spilling the beans on who.)
Papagayo Luxury Villas is a member of Ultra Villas (a collection of luxurious villas around the world).

Private beach club

Guests of Papagayo Luxury Villas have free access to the private 38,000 sq. ft., west-facing Prieta Beach Club (which sits on a virtually private beach).
Find sand icky? The Prieta Beach Club has not one, but two, outdoor pools you can lounge by instead (one is a long lap pool).
Where is the Papagayo Peninsula?
The Papagayo Peninsula is located in the dry and sunny Guanacaste province. See Costa Rica’s northwest Pacific coast on this Google map.
The international Liberia airport is about a 40-minute drive away (there are direct flights from the U.S. and Canada).
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Our top travel tips and resources
→ General trip planning: TripAdvisor is a helpful starting point, offering loads of user reviews on hotels, restaurants and things to do.
→ Hotels: Booking.com is our go-to for scoring a “wow” hotel – or at least a decent one – often at lower rates than the hotel’s own website. (We especially like Booking’s flexible cancellation policy!) You can also find great discounted rates on Expedia, especially for hotels in the U.S. and Mexico.
→ Vacation homes, condos and rentals: We prefer and use Vrbo (Vacation Rentals by Owner).
→ Flights: For the cheapest flights, search on Google Flights or Expedia. (Just be aware Expedia tickets are often non-refundable. If you want more flexibility, it’s usually worth booking directly with the airline, even if it costs a bit more.)
→ Airport lounge access: We love (and have) Priority Pass for comfy lounge seats, free snacks and drinks, complimentary WiFi and sometimes even showers and spa services!
→ Tours: For the best local food, walking and other guided tours, plus skip-the-line tickets to attractions, check out Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and GetYourGuide.
→ Car rental: Renting a car is often a great way to explore off the beaten path. Discover Cars searches car rental companies so you get the lowest rates.
→ eSIMS: Stay connected affordably with Airalo eSIMS covering 200+ countries and trusted by 10 million+ users, including us! (No more huge roaming bills!)
→ Travel insurance: SafetyWing is designed for frequent travelers, long-term adventurers and digital nomads. It covers medical expenses, lost checked luggage, trip interruption and more. We also have and recommend Medjet for global air medical transportation.
→ Travel gear: See our travel shop to find the best luggage, accessories and other travel gear. (We suggest these comfy travel sandals for city walking, the beach and kicking about.)
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Photo credits: 3, 5, 8 to 13 and 15 © Janice and George Mucalov, SandInMySuitcase | Remaining photos Papagayo Luxury (except lead image)
Thanks go to Papagayo Luxury Villas for hosting us as media guests in this lovely part of Costa Rica! We always retain the right to write what we want, however. (If we see any warts, we let you know.)
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Loved your blog post! Do you know if there are any stores (for snacks or drinks) on the Papagayo Peninsula?
Hi Bree!
Glad you liked our post :-).
If you’re staying in one of the villas on the Papagayo Peninsula, they will provision it with your chosen groceries before you arrive, so you don’t have to worry about shopping for food.
That said, there are proper grocery stores in Playas del Coco, about a 40- to 50-minute drive away. The Auto Mercado is said to be the best. You could make a detour into Playas del Coco on your way from the airport if you’re flying into Liberia and have rented a car.
As for liquor, you can buy that at the airport when you arrive.
At the Papagayo Marina, there’s also a tiny market (expensive), where you can pick up a few limited supplies.
If you’re staying at the Hyatt Andaz, we understand they stock your minibar in your room with complimentary water, soda and snacks (peanuts, dried bananas, crackers and the like). But double-check this with the resort, as things may have changed with Covid.
If you’re staying at the Four Seasons, perhaps throw some granola bars and bags of peanuts or other snacks in your suitcase, so you have a few munchies on hand when hunger strikes :-).
Hope this helps!
Wonderful blog! Thank you for your sharing!
It looks like the perfect destination to set up vacation together with your family, looking forward to visiting this place someday. Thanks.
Papagayo Luxury Villas are indeed a great vacation option for families :-)
Papagayo Luxury Villas look heavenly beautiful. Since I’ve never been in Costa Rica I should probably start by going to the Papagayo Peninsula first. I would love to relax on those white beaches with a mango Margarita…. dreaming, dreaming…
The Papagayo Peninsula is definitely at the top luxury end of the scale in Costa Rica. You can’t go wrong here! But Costa Rica is so diverse in scenery and activities, you’d probably want to also stay inland (like we did), maybe the Arenal Volcano area for hotsprings and rainforest or the Monteverde Cloud Forest.
Wow you always find the best places to stay, it looks truly stunning! :-) Will pin!
Papagayo Luxury Villas are a great find! One of the large villas with private swimming pool (one even has two pools!) would be perfect for a multi-generational family holiday. Of course, you’d ask for a private chef for at least a couple of nights too :-).
This place looks incredible, I’d love to experience it – and a golf buggy is a very cool way to get around
The golf buggy was the best! You actually don’t need a car to stay on the Papagayo Peninsula – and can get around everywhere by golf buggy, which your villa will probably rent to you (or it might come with the villa rental, depending…). And for tours, many tour companies will pick you up. The only thing is that if you’re staying for a week or so and wanted to do some exploring (there are some cute beach towns about an hour’s drive away), you might want to rent a vehicle :-).
You sure found the perfect mix of natural beauty and luxury on the Papagayo Peninsula! That buggy ride sounded perfect right before Valentine’s Day. How romantic!
We’re not sure if we should sing the praises of the Papagayo Peninsula too much! Sometimes secret places should be kept a secret :-).