Costa Rica’s Secret Papagayo Peninsula (and a Golf Buggy Ride by Moonlight)

We’re on Costa Rica’s Papagayo Peninsula, tootling around in our golf buggy by the light of a full moon.

We have a date with some mango margaritas at The Dive Bar by the Marina Papagayo.

Our two-person buggy putters along slowly on the wide brick-paved road.

But we’re not worried. Few cars drive around the hilly tree-covered Papagayo Peninsula.

Costa Rica’s Papagayo Peninsula

There are 15 miles of coastline, with more than 31 pristine beaches on both sides of the Papagayo Peninsula catching the salty breeze.

But this exclusive guarded community is still a bit of a Costa Rica secret.

So far, just three hotels – the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo, Hyatt’s Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort and Planet Hollywood Beach Resort – have been built here, along with a handful of condo and villa properties.

Scenic beauty of the Papagayo Peninsula

As we meander along – our buggy gamely puffing its way up and down hills – we’re struck once again by the wild and natural beauty of the Papagayo Peninsula.

First take: From the covered deck of our vacation condo (really a one-level villa that happens to be attached to other villas), the blue of the ocean yawns beyond an expanse of green.

No other signs of man’s footprint blot the view – except for a hint of a well-tended golfcourse below and, way in the distance, the marina’s sailboats.

(This is the marina we’re puttering to this evening – Bari, our vacation home’s expat concierge, said earlier that with a full charge, our buggy should get us there and back. We’re crossing fingers!)

Walks

And then on our early morning walks – before the fierce sun has sucked the last traces of cool air from the land – we’re greeted by troupes of agile Capuchin monkeys navigating the trees beside the road.

One morning, we veer off from our “normal” route to the Four Seasons and walk along a coastal trail connecting two windswept beaches instead.

We meet not another person.

The utter peace and quiet – being surrounded only by nature – is salve for souls normally bruised by the daily onslaught of Twitter and technology.

Prieta Beach

Prieta Beach, where we hang out at the private beach club during the day, is another surprise.

Volcanic grey sand, soft as powder between the toes. Warm ocean water and a gentle sloping beach. The occasional white-nosed coati (like a raccoon with a long white nose) checking in to say “hello.”

And hardly any people!

How many beaches are there in the world which are almost perfect?

Beaches where you can read or snooze on a thickly cushioned teak lounger, under the shade of leafy trees, with just the sound of lapping waves soothing the ears (no disruptive “cool” pool music) – but with discreet drink and food service at your fingertips, yet few other people to spoil the “get away from it all” feel?

Recommended reading: Check out these 21 prettiest beaches in the world!

The Dive Bar

So, do we make it to The Dive Bar?

Yes, indeed!

We enjoy our mango margaritas and try “patacones” (warm fried plantains) for the first time.

Guided by the moon’s bright rays (and flashlights we shine in the hopes of spotting occasional wildlife, like small local deer), our buggy lives up to its promise.

And with an overnight charge, it lives to see another day ferrying us around this Papagayo paradise…

Where to stay on the Papagayo Peninsula

Luxury condo or villa

Don’t get us wrong – we’re Four Seasons fans who’ve been happily pampered at the Four Seasons in Bora Bora, Bali and elsewhere around the world.

But for less than the price of a one-bedroom suite at Papagayo’s Four Seasons, you can enjoy a spacious, art-filled, 3-bed/3-bath luxury condo villa from Papagayo Luxury Villas (like we enjoyed).

Jane Moore, president of Papagayo Luxury Villas, has several villas in her portfolio you can choose from.

Some are 7,000- to 10,000 sq. ft. celeb-worthy mansions – among the world’s swankiest villas with private pools! (And, yes, celebrities have stayed in some of these, but Jane isn’t spilling the beans on who.)

Papagayo Luxury Villas is a member of Ultra Villas (a collection of luxurious villas around the world).

Private beach club

Guests of Papagayo Luxury Villas have free access to the private 38,000 sq. ft., west-facing Prieta Beach Club (which sits on a virtually private beach).

Find sand icky? The Prieta Beach Club has not one, but two, outdoor pools you can lounge by instead (one is a long lap pool).

Where is the Papagayo Peninsula?

The Papagayo Peninsula is located in the dry and sunny Guanacaste province. See Costa Rica’s northwest Pacific coast on this Google map.

The international Liberia airport is about a 40-minute drive away (there are direct flights from the U.S. and Canada).

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Photo credits: 3, 5, 8 to 13 and 15 © Janice and George Mucalov, SandInMySuitcase | Remaining photos Papagayo Luxury (except lead image)

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Thanks go to Papagayo Luxury Villas for hosting us as media guests in this lovely part of Costa Rica! We always retain the right to write what we want, however. (If we see any warts, we let you know.)

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