Sabi Sand Game Reserve Review: Our Thrilling Big 5 Safari!

Sabi Sand Game Reserve review

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The lions are bullet-fast.

Hang on!” yells our safari guide, Pierre Mouton. Veering off-road, we crash after them through the bush.

We’re on a “Big 5” safari in South Africa’s Sabi Sand Game Reserve.

Just moments before, the pride of lions had been sauntering slowly across a grassy plain – out for a stroll, we thought.

But no, these lions are hunting.

And now, as we screech to a halt in front of them, we see that, in an instant, they have already taken down their kill and are feasting on an impala.

On a Big 5 safari in Sabi Sands, you're likely to see lions hunting!
We see lions on the hunt on our Big 5 safari in Sabi Sands!

Killer lions at Sabi Sands

On a big 5 Safari, you may see lions hunting impala
Lions stalking impala in Sabi Sands Game Reserve

Sitting fanned out like spokes in a wheel – their furry faces smeared with blood – the lions tear at the impala.

One lion rips off the antelope’s head, complete with lyre-shaped horns, and wanders off to savor its prize alone.

Lions devour an impala at Sabi Sands
The lions feast on their kill

It’s a macabre scene, a spectacle of nature at its wildest.

That the lions are unfazed by our presence – and we can safely witness it from ten feet away, seated in an open Land Cruiser without high sides or a roof – makes it even more surreal.

But if you get out of the vehicle, things would end very badly for you,” warns Pierre.

No doubt.

Big 5 safari
This lion won’t go hungry tonight…

The Big 5 safari animals

Originally, the Big 5 referred to the five animals that were the hardest and most dangerous to hunt in Africa on foot – lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino.

The Big Five animals were thus the most sought-after prizes for big game hunters.

But times have changed.

Now these iconic animals are the stars of every safari-goer’s dream. And if you’re itching to spot them on an African safari, Sabi Sands is your go-to destination!

Hippos, which can more dangerous than lions, aren’t one of the “Big Five” safari animals

About Sabi Sands

The Sabi Sand Game Reserve (also spelled as “Sabi Sands Game Reserve”) dates back to the late 1920s.

The 153,000-acre sanctuary (a little bigger than Barbados) shares a 31-mile open (unfenced) border with Greater Kruger National Park, which is more than 7,500 square miles in size.

Wildlife viewing by game drives was pioneered at Sabi Sands.

The animals have become habituated to the sounds of engines and people seated (but not standing up) in open game-viewing vehicles – and they go about their business totally unfazed.

Watching lions on a game drive
Watching lions on a game drive

While Sabi Sands is renowned for its up-close game viewing of the Big 5, it’s the leopards that steal the show.

Boasting the highest concentration of leopards in the world, this reserve is a leopard lover’s dream.

Leopards are perhaps the most elusive of the Big 5 animals to spot on safari
Leopards are perhaps the most elusive of the Big 5 animals to spot on safari

Sabi Sand Game Reserve review

The animals you see

Oxpecker birds eat ticks and parasites off this wildebeest
Elephants, giraffes and wildebeest (being preened by birds who eat the ticks and parasites off them)

On a three-night safari in Sabi Sands, we saw lions, leopards and other members of the Big Five.

We also saw giraffes, zebras, thousands of graceful leaping impala, cheetahs and wildebeest.

The cheetahs are interesting.

At first glance, they look similar to leopards. One way to spot the difference between a cheetah and a leopard is the face marking. A cheetah has black “tear marks” (a black line) running down from its eyes on either side of its nose.

But we didn’t see any hyenas at Simbambili.

Those we spotted later at Thornybush Nature Reserve, another private reserve adjoining Kruger Park. And after oohing and aahing over hyena pups suckling on their mother, we think hyenas are kinda cute! Well, at least the babies…

Safari game drives

Our days at Sabi Sands began at 5:30 a.m. with a knock on our door. After scarfing down a quick coffee and muffin, we’d climb into our assigned land cruiser.

We were visiting in South Africa’s cooler winter months (May to September) – when the game viewing is best – so we were grateful for the hot water bottles and blankets provided to ward off the morning chill.

Then we were off, bouncing along on seriously bumpy dirt tracks criss-crossing the dry bushveld.

It always amazed us how the tracker – perched precariously over the front grille without a seatbelt – never fell off.

His was also the worst seat when we encountered the horny white rhino (pun intended!).

Rhino encounter

A rhinocerous
This ornery rhino came a little too close to us for comfort!

Driving slowly, we’d been watching this fella, as red-billed oxpeckers picked insects off his back and he snuffled about the low grasses with his flat snout.

But then he started spraying urine on the dirt road in front of us, stomping and snorting as he got closer.

We backed up.

The rhino charged forward – and thrust his horn almost onto our poor tracker’s lap.

He smells a female’s scent on the ground,” explained Pierre. “Unfortunately, we’re right on it.”

Pierre cupped his hands around his mouth and blew, making “rhino talk” for “Go away!

Fortunately it worked – the rhino grunted his way around us, then ambled on.

Quiet moments and sundowners

Grazing herd of Cape buffalo
Quietly watching a herd of Cape buffalo graze around us

Not all our game drives were so adrenalin-fueled.

Once we just sat quietly gazing at a grazing herd of Cape buffalo.

This buffalo spies us warily…

Another time, we leisurely observed a leopard drag an impala carcass higher up a tree, while her cub slept on a branch, feet dangling.

And we always stopped for sundowners on afternoon drives.

Whoever invented this safari sunset ritual was a genius!

Sundowners in the African bush
Enjoying sundowners in the bush…

Our guide and tracker would whip out limes, liquor and ice cubes from a cooler, plus traditional South African snacks like biltong (spiced dried meat).

We’d drink gin-and-tonics while stretching our legs atop a knoll, watch the sky turn pink then inky violet – and wonder how the next day could possibly be any better.

Making gin-and-tonics for sundowners
Making gin-and-tonics for sundowners on the grille that pops up at the front of our game vehicle

Night game drives

There was also an hour of night driving on the return to the lodge.

Everything felt different in the dark, as the bush seemed to close in on the vehicle.

The tracker would shine a bright spotlight back and forth, looking for the reflecting eyes of smaller nocturnal critters, like cat-like civets and fierce honey badgers.

We saw lions again too (they usually hunt at night).

A lion hunts at night
A lion hunts at night

Safari rhythm

Back at Simbambili, warm vanilla-scented facecloths and a glass of creamy Amarula eased the transition from wilderness to civilization.

Our Sabi Sands safari quickly took on its own rhythm.

Game drive, breakfast, bush walk (with an armed ranger-guide) to learn about animal tracks and towering termite mounds, lunch, siesta, sometimes afternoon tea, game drive, dinner.

And at night, deep in the wild, we’d occasionally fall asleep to the heart-thumping roars of nearby lions.

Where to stay in Sabi Sands Nature Reserve

Simbambili Game Lodge

Simbambili Game Lodge bungalow room with private pool
Simbambili Game Lodge is set along Manyeleti River in the Sabi Sands reserve

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You could pay buckets more at a splurge lodge in Sabi Sands Game Reserve.

But it’s unnecessary. Not when the adults-only Simbambili Game Lodge – located in the more secluded northern section of Sabi Sands – offers nine honeymoon-worthy bungalows!

Simbambili’s bungalows

Deck of Simbambili bungalow with private pool
Our outdoor deck with private plunge pool

Simbambili is part of the Thornybush Collection of 4- and 5-star game lodges in South Africa.

Strung along the edge of a sandy riverbed, Simbambili’s bungalows feature “salas” (outdoor lounge areas with double cushioned day-beds) on their spacious decks – complete with private pools.

You’ll also find enormous bathrooms with egg-shaped stone tubs and rain-showers. And if you fold back the wood-and-glass doors, you bring the outside completely into your bungalow.

The bungalows also have electricity, air-conditioning and even free WiFi.

Dining at Simbambili

The dining room at Simbambili Game Lodge
The dining room at Simbambili

Breakfast and lunch are served in an elegant thatched-roof dining room with tree-trunk columns, fireplaces and no walls on one side.

The dining room overlooks a watering hole, where a moving tableau of warthogs, impala and baboons kept us swapping forks for binoculars.

Cupcakes with strawberries and cream
Who’s got a sweet tooth? Cupcakes for dessert at lunch one day at Simbambili

No Simbambili Game Lodge review would be complete without mentioning its romantic four-course lodge dinners – which alternate with barbecues by lantern light in the dry riverbed or outdoor boma (gathering place).

In the boma, warmed by a blazing fire, we tasted African specialties like barbecued impala and pap (a cornmeal staple flavored with fresh tomato sauce).

As the lodge isn’t fenced and animals wander freely about, we had to be escorted to dinner from our bungalow room. And a guide had a rifle handy when we dined outside in the bush.

We’re still dreaming of the lodge’s warm lemon soufflé! And the lions…

Falling asleep to the sound of roaring lions at night? Priceless…

Simbambili Game Lodge: Check rates and availability here

Thornybush Game Lodge

Biscuit baking, bug walks and pool picnics on safari? Yes, when you take the kids to Thornybush Nature Reserve!

This 38,000-acre private game reserve in the northeastern Limpopo province of South Africa is one of the few in the country offering child-friendly lodges. Like Sabi Sands, it forms part of the Greater Kruger National Park.

The exclusive Thornybush Game Lodge overlooks a dry river bed.
The exclusive Thornybush Game Lodge overlooks a dry river bed

And like Simbambili Game Lodge, the Thornybush Game Lodge is also part of the Thornybush Collection.

Indeed, it’s the flagship lodge – recently renovated – and where we stayed before transferring to Simbambili.

Thornybush Game Lodge
Thornybush Game Lodge

Family safaris at Thornybush

Children are welcome at Thornybush Game Lodge. (Other lodges in the Thornybush group accept youngsters if the family books out the sole use of the camp.)

Children must be six and older to go out on game drives.

Your family is assigned a ranger-guide who enjoys interacting with young guests, and drives can be tailored to suit kids’ interests and attention spans.

Kids are unlikely to get bored on game drives – not when they see, almost within touching distance from their open Land Cruiser, a cheetah bloodily devouring an impala (gross!) or a hyena suckling her pups (cute!).

Hyena and pup
Hyena and pup

Thornybush Game Lodge accommodations

With classic safari charm, the lodge’s accommodations are very comfy, featuring air-conditioning and solar-powered electricity by day.

The lodge has 16 luxury suites, each with indoor and outdoor showers and giant sliding doors to private viewing decks.

A guest suite

Two suites can sleep families of five. With large living rooms and private plunge pools, they also double as honeymoon suites.

As well, there’s the new Kamara House, a private house for multi-generational families or small groups, where you have your own chef to cook for you.

The lodge also has a main pool for the use of all guests.

Dining at Thornybush

The dining area at Thornybush Game Lodge overlooks a waterhole, often visited by elephants and buffalo.

Lodge meals are buffet-style.

Bush dining at Thornybush Game Lodge
Tables are set for dining in the bush

One evening, we ate under the starry skies in the bush.

Seated at communal tables, we feasted by lantern light on barbecued impala and lamb – trying some fine South African Pinotage too. A couple of wee ones were curled up on mattresses by the blazing fire pit.

South African hospitality at its best, we thought…

Thornybush Game Lodge: Check rates and availability

Tips for your South Africa safari in Sabi Sands

  • We flew from North America direct to Johannesburg on South African Airways – see our review of SAA.
  • For safety reasons, you should pre-book your airport hotel transfers in Johannesburg with a reputable local company.
  • Flying time from Johannesburg to Hoedspruit airstrip (for both Thornybush and Sabi Sand game reserves) is about 60 minutes.
  • Anti-malarial tablets should be taken (as Sabi Sands is in a malarial area).

Other places to see the Big Five in Africa?

Cape buffalo in Africa
What big horns these Cape buffalo have!

For us, a safari is a dream vacation, and so we’ve made every effort to experience a few safaris – in South Africa, Botswana and Zambia.

You can see the Big 5 animals on safari in all three countries and more, like Tanzania and Kenya. But some destinations are better than others for viewing certain animals.

South Africa

We also saw elephants on our South African safari in Sabi Sands
We also saw elephants on our South African safari in Sabi Sands

As we discovered fairly quickly, one of the best places for Big 5 safaris is Sabi Sands private game reserve.

Book a three-night safari, and you’re bound to have awesome game viewing and tick the Big Five safari animals off your bucket-list.

If you want to see rhinoceros, your chances are also best at one of South Africa’s game reserves, as the country is home to 80% of the world’s remaining rhinos.

For leopards, again, Sabi Sands is tops – you’re almost guaranteed to see leopard there.

A Sabi Sands leopard with its kill in a tree

Botswana

Want to see huge herds of elephants?

Then Chobe National Park in Botswana is a sure bet. The park is home to the largest populations of elephants in the African continent.

On our Chobe safari, we saw elephants giving themselves dust baths, bathing in the river, yanking grass out of the water with their trunks to eat, spraying each with water – and we heard them trumpeting too.

You see so many elephants in Chobe National Park!
You see so many elephants in Chobe National Park!

Perhaps even more amazing is that we had really up-close-and-personal elephant viewing. This is especially true when viewing ellies from a boat in the Chobe River.

For lots of close-up elephant viewing, we recommend a Chobe River safari on the elegant Zambezi Queen.

Wake up to the sound of hippos grunting and sip champagne as you watch elephants play at sunset, just beyond your boat – magical…

Tanzania

In Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater, it’s almost a guarantee that you’ll glimpse the critically endangered black rhino.

Zambia

Like Sabi Sands, South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is also a good place for spotting leopards. Try a walking safari too (they were pioneered in this park).

Kenya

The wildebeest migration in Kenya
The wildebeest migration in Kenya

The Masai Mara, one of Africa’s most famous national reserves, is renowned for being one of the best places for seeing lions hunt for wildebeest during the wildebeest migration from August to November.


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Big 5 Safari in Sabi Sands Game Reserve

Our top travel tips and resources

Hotels: Booking.com is perfect for scoring a “wow” hotel – or at least a decent one – at lower rates than the hotel’s own website. We especially like Booking’s flexible cancellation policy!

Vacation homes, condos and rentals: We prefer and use Vrbo (Vacation Rentals by Owner).

Cruises: CruiseDirect offers amazing deals on cruises (including Holland America, Viking Ocean Cruises, Seabourn and other lines we’ve reviewed).

Flights: To book the cheapest flights, search on Google Flights or Expedia. (Just be aware Expedia tickets may be non-refundable.)

Airport lounge access: We love (and have) Priority Pass for comfy lounge seats, free snacks and drinks, complimentary WiFi and sometimes even showers and spa services!

Tours: For the best local food, walking and other guided tours, plus skip-the-line tickets to attractions, check out Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and GetYourGuide.

Car rental: Renting a car is often a great way to explore off the beaten path. Discover Cars searches car rental companies so you get the lowest rates.

eSIMS: Stay connected affordably with Airalo eSIMS covering 200+ countries and trusted by 10 million+ users, including us! (No more huge roaming bills!)

Travel insurance: SafetyWing is designed for frequent travelers, long-term adventurers and digital nomads. It covers medical expenses, lost checked luggage, trip interruption and more. We also have and recommend Medjet for global air medical transportation.

Travel gear: See our travel shop to find the best luggage, accessories and other travel gear. (We suggest these comfy travel sandals for city walking, the beach and kicking about.)

Need more help planning your trip? Check out our travel tips and resources guide for airline booking tips, ways to save money, how to find great hotels and other crazy useful trip planning info.

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Photo credits: 5, 6, 9, 15 to 20, 24, 25, 29, 34 © Janice and George Mucalov, SandInMySuitcase | 8, 11, 13, 14, 22, 23, 26 to 28, 30, 31 Thornybush | 7, 10, 12 Pierre Mouton


About the authors

Janice and George Mucalov are award-winning travel journalists who’ve explored all seven continents. They share destination guidesluxury hotel reviewscultural adventurescruise insightstravel tips and more on their luxury travel blog, Sand In My Suitcase. See About.

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42 Comments

  1. Try Uganda next. Visitors fall in love with Uganda’s breathtaking Rift Valley scenery, lush countryside and incredible biodiversity. Track our closest relatives, the Mountain Gorillas and chimpanzees, venture on safari to see the Elephants, Big Cats and incredible 1,066 species of birds, or just lie by the poolside overlooking the fabulous River Nile. Ugandans love to meet and greet new people – the country’s crafts, dance and community tourism intrigue and delight the visitor.

  2. Although I was at the Kapama Reserve, it sounds like we had very similar safari experiences.
    I don’t think there’s anything quite as awe-inspiring as watching lions tear apart their kill; crazy stuff that has a way of reminding me, that in spite of our insulated lives, we are still part of the food chain (especially if, like you said, we would have been dumb enough to get out of that jeep!).
    Loved all the photos (yours and the others you credited).
    Thanks!

    1. The more animals we see in the wild, the more we realize how truly “wild” and unpredictable they are, no matter how “tame” they may appear (e.g., for elephant riding) or how cute they are when young. They deserve a healthy respect from us.

    1. We couldn’t believe it either! How lucky did we get! And, we were told, it’s not uncommon for guests to see a lion kill. Sabi Sand Game Reserve is definitely the place to go on safari for the best chances of seeing these kinds of animal encounters.

  3. I cannot believe how beautiful these photos are. I envy you soooo much for having the opportunity to take such great pics. :) Good for you!

    1. Aren’t you sweet! But just so you don’t feel too envious, some of these photos were also taken by our guide Pierre Mouton :-).

  4. Hi Janice and George. I’m planning to go mountain biking in Ethiopia next year and I’ll have five days or so spare. Do you have any recommendations for a five day safari? Wouldn’t mind a bit of luxury because i’ll be roughing it for two weeks on the mountain bike trip. Love the photos.

    1. Ethiopia? You really are one adventurous girl! We actually had to fly through Addis Ababa after our Zambia safari (which followed our South Africa safari) to get to Zanzibar, but that’s another story. But from Ethiopia you can fly south to Lusaka, Zambia and do a river-based safari there. We stayed at Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro Camp in Lower Zambezi National Park – and cannot say enough wonderful things about these camps (which are related). If you need any more info, please feel free to shoot us more questions :-).

  5. Great article and photos.

    My wife Tamara and I are in the early stages of planning a safari. We haven’t picked a country yet from those on offer, but you seem to have seen a lot of animals.

    How did you research it all, and what decided you on this particular safari? And who did you book through etc. ?

    1. Glad you like the story!

      We put this trip together ourselves. But unless you don’t mind spending a lot of time planning, it’s a lot easier/more convenient to book through a tour operator. As newbie safari-goers, we were very happy with visiting South Africa first (Sabi Sand Game Reserve) – where chances of seeing the “Big 5” are very high and close-up game viewing is excellent. Plus most of the lodges are all of a really high quality with all the mod cons, and more.

      Having visually gorged ourselves on lions and leopards, we loved our subsequent Zambia river-based safari experience (wilder, more remote, river life focus, e.g, elephants, hippos, crocs). See “Chiawa Safari Camp Nails Glamping in Zambia.”

      How to choose? If you have say 2 weeks, limit yourself to South Africa and Victoria Falls, or Zambia, or Kenya/Tanzania. Decide if you want to do night drives and go off-road (some countries/parks don’t allow this). Different countries have different game viewing vehicles too (in Tanzania, you stand with your head poking up through the top of the vehicle).

      Good luck! You’re bound to have a great trip whatever you decide…

  6. Thank you for your comment… Witnessing the lion kill was probably a once-in-a-lifetime thrill for us! And lions are such magnificent creatures, aren’t they…

  7. We’ve been feeling the call back to Africa lately. I stumbled upon your post and was immediately drawn back to our last trip to SA. Time to start planning…we miss our sundowners!

    1. They say that once you visit Africa, your heart never leaves it – and you’re drawn back time and time again. In Zambia, we met a couple who must have done over 50 safaris to different African countries in their lifetime so far. We too miss our sundowners, and hope to return one day…

  8. There need to be more travel blog posts that quote Bruce Cockburn. What an epic article on an amazing African safari adventure. I love the idea of chilling with a cocktail or two and watching the sun go down then driving at night for more safari.

    1. We never tired of going on game drives to look for wild animals – be it early morning, late afternoon or after the sun set… And we look forward to reading a blog post from you with a Bruce Cockburn quote :-).

  9. How very cool! Going on a safari in Africa has been high on my list for a long time. But it’s so prohibitively expensive.

    1. True – flying there, and then going on safari, makes it one of the most expensive trips you can do (along with an expedition cruise to Antarctica). One tip: use credit card or airline points for the flights. And the rest? Well, it’s a trip of a lifetime that you won’t regret…

  10. Amazing photographs ! Felt like I was reading a National Geographic article, that first one with the lion eating the antelope head is quite a shot. Wow. Thanks for sharing!

    1. We thought we were extremely lucky to watch this lion kill (and up close!). But then we found out that safari-goers here are often this lucky. Quite amazing…

  11. This is a fantastic article… and the photography is wonderful! I love the way the article was designed with the close-up of the lion… An African safari is still on my bucket list!

    1. Thanks so much! And, yes, put an African safari on your “must-do” list :-). Now we want to return to the African continent and visit Botswana, Namibia, Kenya… The problem is that one African visit isn’t enough – sigh…

  12. What awesome shots and what beautiful, powerful beasts of the wild! You make me wanna pack my bags and just go ! :D

  13. I’m a real animal lover, would love to see these beautiful creatures in the wild one day, beautiful photos!

    1. Hope you get to Africa some day… Seeing these majestic creatures in the wild is very different than seeing them in a zoo :-).

    1. Janice, loved the way you put this article together! Had so much fun taking you around! Hope to see you back at Simbambili soon! Keep an eye on my Pierre Mouton Out ‘n Wild facebook page for my “best of 2013” albums! Let me know what u think, would love it if you could share my page here too someday! Hope you are all well! Pierre Mouton

      1. Thank YOU for showing us such a wonderful game-viewing experience! And thank you also for sharing your amazing wildlife photos.