Sabi Sand Game Reserve Review: Our Thrilling Big 5 Safari!

The lions are bullet-fast.

“Hang on!” yells our safari guide, Pierre Mouton. Veering off-road, we crash after them through the bush.

Killer lions at Sabi Sands

Sitting fanned out like spokes in a wheel – their furry faces smeared with blood – the lions tear at the impala.

One lion rips off the antelope’s head, complete with lyre-shaped horns, and wanders off to savor its prize alone.

It’s a macabre scene, a spectacle of nature at its wildest.

That the lions are unfazed by our presence – and we can safely witness it from ten feet away, seated in an open Land Cruiser without high sides or a roof – makes it even more surreal.

“But if you get out of the vehicle, things would end very badly for you,” warns Pierre.

No doubt.

The Big 5 safari animals

Originally, the Big 5 referred to the five animals that were the hardest and most dangerous to hunt in Africa on foot – lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino.

The Big Five animals were thus the most sought-after prizes for big game hunters.

But times have changed.

Now these iconic animals are the stars of every safari-goer’s dream. And if you’re itching to spot them on an African safari, Sabi Sands is your go-to destination!

About Sabi Sands

The Sabi Sand Game Reserve (also spelled as “Sabi Sands Game Reserve”) dates back to the late 1920s.

The 153,000-acre sanctuary (a little bigger than Barbados) shares a 31-mile open (unfenced) border with Greater Kruger National Park, which is more than 7,500 square miles in size.

Wildlife viewing by game drives was pioneered at Sabi Sands.

The animals have become habituated to the sounds of engines and people seated (but not standing up) in open game-viewing vehicles – and they go about their business totally unfazed.

Sabi Sand Game Reserve review

The animals you see

But we didn’t see any hyenas at Simbambili.

Those we spotted later at Thornybush Nature Reserve, another private reserve adjoining Kruger Park. And after oohing and aahing over hyena pups suckling on their mother, we think hyenas are kinda cute! Well, at least the babies…

Safari game drives

Our days at Sabi Sands began at 5:30 a.m. with a knock on our door. After scarfing down a quick coffee and muffin, we’d climb into our assigned land cruiser.

We were visiting in South Africa’s cooler winter months (May to September) – when the game viewing is best – so we were grateful for the hot water bottles and blankets provided to ward off the morning chill.

Then we were off, bouncing along on seriously bumpy dirt tracks criss-crossing the dry bushveld.

It always amazed us how the tracker – perched precariously over the front grille without a seatbelt – never fell off.

His was also the worst seat when we encountered the horny white rhino (pun intended!).

Rhino encounter

Driving slowly, we’d been watching this fella, as red-billed oxpeckers picked insects off his back and he snuffled about the low grasses with his flat snout.

But then he started spraying urine on the dirt road in front of us, stomping and snorting as he got closer.

We backed up.

The rhino charged forward – and thrust his horn almost onto our poor tracker’s lap.

“He smells a female’s scent on the ground,” explained Pierre. “Unfortunately, we’re right on it.”

Pierre cupped his hands around his mouth and blew, making “rhino talk” for “Go away!”

Fortunately it worked – the rhino grunted his way around us, then ambled on.

Quiet moments and sundowners

Not all our game drives were so adrenalin-fueled.

Once we just sat quietly gazing at a grazing herd of Cape buffalo.

Another time, we leisurely observed a leopard drag an impala carcass higher up a tree, while her cub slept on a branch, feet dangling.

And we always stopped for sundowners on afternoon drives.

Whoever invented this safari sunset ritual was a genius!

Our guide and tracker would whip out limes, liquor and ice cubes from a cooler, plus traditional South African snacks like biltong (spiced dried meat).

We’d drink gin-and-tonics while stretching our legs atop a knoll, watch the sky turn pink then inky violet – and wonder how the next day could possibly be any better.

Night game drives

There was also an hour of night driving on the return to the lodge.

Everything felt different in the dark, as the bush seemed to close in on the vehicle.

The tracker would shine a bright spotlight back and forth, looking for the reflecting eyes of smaller nocturnal critters, like cat-like civets and fierce honey badgers.

We saw lions again too (they usually hunt at night).

Safari rhythm

Back at Simbambili, warm vanilla-scented facecloths and a glass of creamy Amarula eased the transition from wilderness to civilization.

Our Sabi Sands safari quickly took on its own rhythm.

Game drive, breakfast, bush walk (with an armed ranger-guide) to learn about animal tracks and towering termite mounds, lunch, siesta, sometimes afternoon tea, game drive, dinner.

And at night, deep in the wild, we’d occasionally fall asleep to the heart-thumping roars of nearby lions.

Where to stay in Sabi Sands Nature Reserve

Simbambili Game Lodge

You could pay buckets more at a splurge lodge in Sabi Sands Game Reserve.

But it’s unnecessary. Not when the adults-only Simbambili Game Lodge – located in the more secluded northern section of Sabi Sands – offers nine honeymoon-worthy bungalows!

Simbambili’s bungalows

Simbambili is part of the Thornybush Collection of 4- and 5-star game lodges in South Africa.

Strung along the edge of a sandy riverbed, Simbambili’s bungalows feature “salas” (outdoor lounge areas with double cushioned day-beds) on their spacious decks – complete with private pools.

You’ll also find enormous bathrooms with egg-shaped stone tubs and rain-showers. And if you fold back the wood-and-glass doors, you bring the outside completely into your bungalow.

The bungalows also have electricity, air-conditioning and even free WiFi.

Dining at Simbambili

Breakfast and lunch are served in an elegant thatched-roof dining room with tree-trunk columns, fireplaces and no walls on one side.

The dining room overlooks a watering hole, where a moving tableau of warthogs, impala and baboons kept us swapping forks for binoculars.

No Simbambili Game Lodge review would be complete without mentioning its romantic four-course lodge dinners – which alternate with barbecues by lantern light in the dry riverbed or outdoor boma (gathering place).

In the boma, warmed by a blazing fire, we tasted African specialties like barbecued impala and pap (a cornmeal staple flavored with fresh tomato sauce).

As the lodge isn’t fenced and animals wander freely about, we had to be escorted to dinner from our bungalow room. And a guide had a rifle handy when we dined outside in the bush.

Thornybush Game Lodge

Biscuit baking, bug walks and pool picnics on safari? Yes, when you take the kids to Thornybush Nature Reserve!

This 38,000-acre private game reserve in the northeastern Limpopo province of South Africa is one of the few in the country offering child-friendly lodges. Like Sabi Sands, it forms part of the Greater Kruger National Park.

And like Simbambili Game Lodge, the Thornybush Game Lodge is also part of the Thornybush Collection.

Indeed, it’s the flagship lodge – recently renovated – and where we stayed before transferring to Simbambili.

Family safaris at Thornybush

Children are welcome at Thornybush Game Lodge. (Other lodges in the Thornybush group accept youngsters if the family books out the sole use of the camp.)

Children must be six and older to go out on game drives.

Your family is assigned a ranger-guide who enjoys interacting with young guests, and drives can be tailored to suit kids’ interests and attention spans.

Kids are unlikely to get bored on game drives – not when they see, almost within touching distance from their open Land Cruiser, a cheetah bloodily devouring an impala (gross!) or a hyena suckling her pups (cute!).

Thornybush Game Lodge accommodations

With classic safari charm, the lodge’s accommodations are very comfy, featuring air-conditioning and solar-powered electricity by day.

The lodge has 16 luxury suites, each with indoor and outdoor showers and giant sliding doors to private viewing decks.

Two suites can sleep families of five. With large living rooms and private plunge pools, they also double as honeymoon suites.

As well, there’s the new Kamara House, a private house for multi-generational families or small groups, where you have your own chef to cook for you.

The lodge also has a main pool for the use of all guests.

Dining at Thornybush

The dining area at Thornybush Game Lodge overlooks a waterhole, often visited by elephants and buffalo.

Lodge meals are buffet-style.

Other places to see the Big Five in Africa?

For us, a safari is a dream vacation, and so we’ve made every effort to experience a few safaris – in South Africa, Botswana and Zambia.

You can see the Big 5 animals on safari in all three countries and more, like Tanzania and Kenya. But some destinations are better than others for viewing certain animals.

South Africa

As we discovered fairly quickly, one of the best places for Big 5 safaris is Sabi Sands private game reserve.

Book a three-night safari, and you’re bound to have awesome game viewing and tick the Big Five safari animals off your bucket-list.

If you want to see rhinoceros, your chances are also best at one of South Africa’s game reserves, as the country is home to 80% of the world’s remaining rhinos.

For leopards, again, Sabi Sands is tops – you’re almost guaranteed to see leopard there.

Botswana

Want to see huge herds of elephants?

Then Chobe National Park in Botswana is a sure bet. The park is home to the largest populations of elephants in the African continent.

On our Chobe safari, we saw elephants giving themselves dust baths, bathing in the river, yanking grass out of the water with their trunks to eat, spraying each with water – and we heard them trumpeting too.

Perhaps even more amazing is that we had really up-close-and-personal elephant viewing. This is especially true when viewing ellies from a boat in the Chobe River.

Tanzania

In Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater, it’s almost a guarantee that you’ll glimpse the critically endangered black rhino.

Zambia

Like Sabi Sands, South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is also a good place for spotting leopards. Try a walking safari too (they were pioneered in this park).

Kenya

The Masai Mara, one of Africa’s most famous national reserves, is renowned for being one of the best places for seeing lions hunt for wildebeest during the wildebeest migration from August to November.

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Photo credits: 5, 6, 9, 15 to 20, 24, 25, 29, 34 © Janice and George Mucalov, SandInMySuitcase | 8, 11, 13, 14, 22, 23, 26 to 28, 30, 31 Thornybush | 7, 10, 12 Pierre Mouton

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