Many suggested Croatia travel itineraries cover the length of the country – from north to south – hitting pretty well most of the top places to visit in Croatia.
They have you starting inland in the capital of Zagreb, take you to the famous Plitvice Lakes, maybe to Rovinj, then down to Split and the Dalmatian islands – and have you ending up in Dubrovnik.
Epic? Yes. Relaxing? Not so much.
Our 14-day Croatia itinerary takes you to the major cities and most beautiful islands in the country’s southern region, the Dalmatian Coast.
We’re big on slow travel. And for us, that means focusing on one area and really delving into some of Croatia’s best beach destinations, wineries and old medieval towns in Dalmatia.
We’ve crafted the best Croatia itinerary for you if you’re looking to make the most of your time in this diverse region. So, let’s get going!
2 Weeks in Croatia: Itinerary
About our Croatia itinerary (Dalmatia)
Getting around Croatia by ferry
Best of Croatia itinerary: 14 days
Best time to island-hop Croatia
About our 14-day Croatia itinerary
If this is your first time to Croatia, trust us, you’ll want to return! (We’ve toured the country on three extended trips now and also visited Dubrovnik more times on cruises.)
Spending just one or two nights in a place and constantly packing and unpacking is tiring.
If you zero in on a smaller region, you can discover it in a more leisurely fashion (knowing you can visit other parts of Croatia on another trip).
This trip, we wanted lots of time to swim, stroll about centuries-old towns, go wine tasting, ride a bicycle, hike, eat the freshest of seafood, read books on the beach and sip Aperol Spritzes at sunset while people-watching.
Dalmatia is famous for this.
The 200-mile-long Dalmatian Coast is known for its crystal ink-blue waters, charming medieval towns, picturesque pebble beaches and sunny Mediterranean climate.
This 2-week Croatia itinerary is therefore ideal for the slow traveler who wants to experience the best of Croatia – without trying to see the whole country in one go.
It’s especially apt for travelers who want know how to plan a Dalmatian Coast trip.
The route starts in Dubrovnik and ends in Split (though you can do this in reverse). Along the way, you visit three of the best islands in Croatia – Korcula, Hvar and Brac.
Best way to travel in Croatia
For independent travelers, island hopping by ferry is by far the best way to see the Dalmatian Coast!
We didn’t rent a car. We took ferries from island to island, staying in the old towns reached by ferry.
The old town hotels in this Dalmatian Coast itinerary will send a staff member to meet you at the ferry dock and help carry your luggage to the hotel. (Text or email them in advance of your ferry arrival time.)
Often there are lots of stairs to climb in Croatia’s old towns, so you’ll appreciate this service!
It helped that we traveled light, with one rollaboard and laptop backpack each. (And, yes, traveling carry-on was a challenge for Janice, but she did it!)
Within the old towns, we walked everywhere and to nearby beaches and attractions. And we booked tours as day trips to explore the island we were on or to visit other smaller islands.
Getting around Croatia by ferry
Several ferry lines service Croatia and Dalmatia.
Most are passenger-only, high-speed catamarans.
The cost is the equivalent of about $15 to $20 USD p.p. per ferry ride, depending on the distance.
The ferries run more frequently in the summer months between June to September (the tourist season). In fact, they don’t really gear up for island hopping in Croatia until about mid-June.
It’s therefore easier to plan a Croatian islands itinerary if you visit during this time.
During high season (July and August), be sure to reserve your ferry tickets in advance, as they can sell out.
Jadrolinija
Jadrolinija is the main ferry provider in Croatia.
Their schedules are usually reliable, especially in July and August. But they still canceled one of our trips. (We traveled in June.)
Take-away: Be prepared to tweak your Croatia Dalmatian coast itinerary, according to the ferry schedule.
The sailings on Jadrolinija ferries take longer, but you can sit or walk outside on the deck. This is not possible on the comfortable high-speed catamarans.
Best of Croatia itinerary: 14 days
The following covers the best of Croatia in 2 weeks. Now, it does skip Istria – but we think that’s best left for another visit.
Dubrovnik – Days 1 to 2
Let’s start by saying that we’ve never yet spent enough time in Dubrovnik. It’s simply one of the best places to visit in Croatia!
Its Old Town may be small, but it’s packed with things to do and explore, and we can’t wait to go back.
Dubrovnik is a historical gem, and it’s worth the hype. Besides the rich history and mind-blowing architecture, the waters lapping the Adriatic beaches are beyond the blues of your dreams.
Dubrovnik is a must on your Dalmatian coast trip. It’s one of the most beautiful ancient fortress cities in Europe.
And the secret is out. You, along with thousands of others, visit the city daily.
So, if you can’t deal with crowds, go in the shoulder season (but that will make Dalmatia island hopping harder to organize).
Or plan day trips so you’re away from the Old Town from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm, when the crowds are the worst.
Plus, it’s cooler and more pleasant in high season to visit the Old Town in the early mornings and late afternoons/evenings.
Things to do in Dubrovnik
Explore the Old Town
As you walk through the gleaming Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979), the ancient buildings and rich history transport you to a bygone era.
It’s compact enough to explore in half a day or less.
But you could easily spend more time wandering down the narrow alleys that shoot off Stradun, the main street. Each alley is lined with adorable cafés and tourist shops.
While there, check out sites like:
- Pile Gate
- Ploce Gate
- Church of Saint Blaise
- Orlando’s Column
- Dominican Monastery
- Jesuit Staircase
- Gunduliceva Poljana Market
For Dubrovnik in a nutshell, here’s a 1½-hour guided Old Town walking tour which takes you to the most important historical landmarks.
If you wander through the Old Town as day turns into night, you’ll hear the twittering of hundreds of tiny swifts on their evening flight.
Pro tip: Every day in the summer months, cruises float into Dubrovnik. After all, it’s one of the best places in Croatia! So, time your visit when there are fewer cruise ships in the port. Check here for the schedule. You’ll thank us later.
Walk the city walls
The city walls form the perimeter of the Old Town and are Dubrovnik’s main attraction. And they don’t disappoint.
The stone walls were built between the 12th and 17th centuries to protect the city. As you meander on top of them, enjoy the bird’s eye views.
The terra cotta-colored roof tiles are a sharp contrast to the azure sea – and it’s breathtaking.
Take your time soaking up the scenes of the Gothic and Renaissance churches, Venetian palaces and stone houses from above.
You’ll feel like a fly on the wall watching the daily lives of the families living within these historic walls.
Tickets to walk on the city walls are now 250 Croatian Kunas (about $36.50 USD) per adult.
We’ve walked these walls three times and learned a thing or two. For more details and pro tips (including how to avoid the crowds), check out our guide on walking the Dubrovnik city walls.
Do a Game of Thrones tour
Unless you’ve lived under a rock for the last decade, you probably know and love Game of Thrones. And you also probably know it’s filmed in and around Dubrovnik.
So, take a guided small group tour to learn all about the filming locations and behind-the-scenes secrets. Not to mention all the hot gossip that only the locals who lead this tour know.
Swim at Banje Beach
You can’t go to Dubrovnik and not swim at iconic Banje Beach.
Yes, it’s the city’s main public beach. But where else can you float in the multi-hued blue Adriatic while looking at the Old Town and Lokrum Island? (More on that in a second…)
It’s one of our favorite beaches in Dubrovnik. And the perfect Croatia itinerary has a balance of cities and beaches – Dubrovnik and Banje is an ideal combo.
You can spread your towel on the smooth pebbles for free.
Or you can rent beach beds from Banje Beach Club, the hottest day club, restaurant and lounge in the area. Get a massage while listening to the DJ and sipping champagne!
Since it’s only about an 8-minute’ walk from the Old Town, Banje Beach is a perfect reprieve from the mid-day sun.
Pro tip: Buy a pair of water shoes and wear them like your life depends on it. There are sea urchins and anemones in the waters around Croatia. Nothing ruins a vacation like an urchin spine in your foot.
Take a water taxi to Lokrum
If Banje Beach doesn’t cut it for a day at the beach, hop on an adorable wooden water taxi to Lokrum Island, the “Island of Love.”
We’re not exactly sure why it’s called the Island of Love, especially since the curses surrounding the island are far from loveable.
Legend has it that Benedictine monks cursed the island when the French booted them off. After that, there were shipwrecks, deaths, suicides and murders galore, and a great fire that burned everything to the ground.
Fortunately, today it’s a nature and forest reserve, chock full of history and only open for day trips.
After exploring the historic monastery, the lovely outdoor cafés and the botanical garden – and snapping pics of the wild peacocks – find a rocky slab to sit on and dive into the turquoise sea.
Spend a full day on Lokrum if you can.
Or you can book a 3-hour kayaking tour from Dubrovnik.
You first get to see the city walls from the sea. Then you paddle over to Lokrum and along part of its shoreline, where you have the chance to swim.
Ride the cable car to Mount Srd
For a panoramic view over Dubrovnik and the surrounding islands, ride the cable car up Mount Srd.
At the top, explore the Dubrovnik Imperial Fortress (built by Napoleon) and the Croatia Homeland War Museum.
If you have time, stay for the sunset and watch the fuchsia haze settle over the water and the Elafiti Islands in the distance. It’s a thing of magic.
Another option is to take a combo tour and combine an Old Town walking tour with a cable car ride up Mount Srd.
Visit the Elafiti Islands on a day trip
There are three main islands to visit in this archipelago: Lopud, Kolocep and Sipan.
You may visit the Elafiti Islands (also called the Elaphite Islands) for the postcard-worthy beaches. But you’ll fall in love with the little villages and churches surrounded by olive and citrus groves.
Lopud and Kolocep are car-free, so you’ll have to hike or kayak around them to discover all the hidden coves and coastal caves.
The best way to see the islands is with a tour. Here are some different options:
- A 3-island Elafiti boat cruise with lunch and wine
- An Elafiti Islands day cruise on a replica of a 16th-century wooden merchant ship (with snorkeling included)
- A 4-island speedboat tour with a visit to two different sea caves (Blue Cave and Odysseus Cave)
Where to stay in Dubrovnik
There are three main neighborhoods to stay in in Dubrovnik.
The first is the Old Town, and while it may be ideal for some, it’s definitely not for others.
Here’s why…
It’s a car-free zone. If you come with a heavy suitcase, you’ll have to roll it up and down cobbled streets and staircases to get to your hotel room. Not exactly a luxurious way to start your vacation, trust us.
Also, there aren’t a lot of accommodation choices, and it’s one of the most expensive areas in Dubrovnik.
However, you’re in the thick of it all, and once you drop your suitcase, you have everything at your fingertips.
Ploce, just east of the Old Town, is where we like to stay.
It’s within walking distance (or a very short bus ride) to all the tourist sites within the city walls. Additionally, there are more accommodation options here, including luxury hotels on the waterfront.
Lapad, a peninsula west of the Old Town, is the third neighborhood and a 10-minute public transportation ride to the center.
It has a wide tree-lined pedestrian-only street with affordable hotels and restaurants. Because it’s a peninsula, there are some lovely beaches to relax on.
It’s the perfect place for a family vacation in Dubrovnik.
Old Town – Boutique Hotel Stari Grad
Boutique Hotel Stari Grad is the best place to stay in the Old Town.
The fully renovated 16th-century historic palace has eight spacious rooms. Breakfast on the rooftop terrace with views of Old Town, the Adriatic Sea and the surrounding islands is included.
Ploce – Excelsior Hotel
We love the 5-star Hotel Excelsior.
What’s not to love? It’s a historic villa with sea view rooms. We swam right off the terrace below, and the hotel is only a few minutes’ walk from the Old Town.
There’s also a grand indoor swimming pool if the sea isn’t your style.
A drool-worthy champagne breakfast buffet (with George’s fave – plum dumplings) is included in the room rates.
Not only are you treated like royalty, you may run into a royal while you’re here.
Queen Elizabeth II, Morgan Freeman and Elizabeth Taylor, among others, have all stayed at this luxury Dubrovnik hotel.
Lapad – Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik
Set one minute from the beach on a striking cliff, the 5-star Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik offers sea views from every newly rehabbed room.
Take a private elevator down to the secluded pebble beach and spend the day lounging on your secret hideaway. Or head to The Wine Bar with over 180 wines and champagnes just waiting to be sipped.
Where to eat in Dubrovnik
Sensus Restaurant
Dine on Mediterranean fare at Sensus Restaurant, one of the most elegant restaurants in Dubrovnik.
The setting is very romantic, especially if you sit outside on the stone terrace. The tables here (draped with white tablecloths) have terrific views of the Old Town.
To start with, we were offered complimentary wafer-thin fried plantain chips with eggplant-and-goat cheese dip. They went well with the bubbly rosé.
We then dined on beef tartare, grilled octopus and sea bass with cauliflower foam. And it was all excellent, as was the service.
Proto Fish Restaurant
Recommended by the Michelin Guide, Proto Fish Restaurant is known for its fresh fish and seafood.
Its roof terrace is lovely (or you can sit streetside).
The fresh catch of the day is always a hit. Or try the truffle pasta with shrimp or grilled scallops with apple lentil mash.
Trattoria Carmen
For fresh good Italian food at reasonable prices, Trattoria Carmen is the place to go.
It’s located on a secluded street in the Old Town.
The menu, which changes daily, is written up on a chalkboard. The pasta is super fresh. And the octopus entrée is a fave.
Korcula – Days 3 to 5
Heading northwest from Dubrovnik, Korcula Island is the next destination on our Croatia trip itinerary.
Korcula is simply one of the best Croatia islands!
It’s known for its sandy beaches, medieval towns and thriving wine industry. It’s the perfect laid-back antithesis to Dubrovnik’s beautiful chaos.
Korcula’s cobblestoned Old Town is pedestrian-only, like Dubrovnik’s Old Town. The narrow lanes are charming and peppered with opulent architecture and cute cafés.
Keep an eye out for these sights:
- Town Gate
- Marco Polo’s house (he’s said to be from Korcula)
- St. Mark’s Cathedral
You can see and learn about the major sights on a guided 2-hour art and history walking tour of Korcula Old Town.
Pro tip: There are traditional moreska (sword dance) performances every Monday and Thursday, so be sure to check that out for a taste of Korcula’s culture.
Getting from Dubrovnik to Korcula
Ferries run frequently from Dubrovnik to Korcula in the tourist season (June to September). The sailing time is about 2 hours.
We took the TP Line to Korcula Town. From there, it was a mere 5 minutes’ walk (no stairs) to our hotel.
Things to do in Korcula
Hike up to St. Antun Church
Take a 30-minute hike from town along a coastal sidewalk, and you’ll find yourself at the base of St. Anthony’s Hill. Then climb up 102 steps through a cypress forest to St. Antun’s Church.
Bring a picnic and a bottle of local wine and enjoy the quiet and peaceful hilltop.
Take the hop-on hop-off water taxi
Go on an excursion for the day via a hop-on hop-off water taxi. For tickets, head to the boat dock (by the ferry dock) and look for a stall with a sign that reads “Korcula Water Taxi.”
Then hop on and head to:
Badija Island
An adorable uninhabited island, Badija is known for its 14th-century Franciscan Monastery, tame deer that love to be hand-fed and secluded pebble beaches.
The beaches are so well-hidden, they beg you to go skinny dipping. Not that we’d do that. Okay, we totally did that!
Vrnik Island
Vrnik is a favorite Sunday destination for locals from Korcula.
It’s famous for its deep stone quarries, 29 to be exact, that date back to Roman times. In addition, there are loads of secluded swimming spots tucked where the sea is an astounding shade of cobalt.
There’s a small restaurant under the shade of pine trees (Vrnik Arts Club), where you can plop down on a bean bag, have a drink and cool off in the clear sea.
Lumbarda
Unlike the other two stops, Lumbarda isn’t an island. Rather, it’s a small seaside village of fishermen and farmers on the southeast coast of Korcula Island.
It’s well worth a visit – if not for the (rare) sandy beach of Vela Przina, but also for its famous Grk wine.
If you don’t have time to make it to Vela Przina, there’s a pebble beach (Prvi Zal Beach) with a pretty restaurant and sunbeds/umbrellas right by the Lumbarda wharf – Café Prvi Zal.
Check out Lumbarda Village
You can take a direct water taxi (or the hop-on hop-off one above) to Lumbarda Village. Or you can rent a bike in Korcula Town and bicycle there. It’s only 3½ miles south and an easy ride.
If you’re going to Vela Przina, the nicest beach in Lumbarda, then get there early to nab a sunbed. Unfortunately, those spots get snatched up quickly. However, there are three other sandy beaches nearby if that’s what you’re after.
Not far from Vela Przina are the vineyards.
Lumbarda is the only area in the world where Grk grapes thrive, so you’d better get your fill of this delicious white wine – we did! Most Grk wines are dry, some are citrusy and others have a fruity note.
You’ll need to try them all to find your favorite. Our orders!
Pro tip: If you take a direct water taxi to Lumbarda, rent a bicycle and ride between the vineyards, tasting to your heart’s content. Must taste wineries – Lovric Winery, Popic Winery and Winery Gryk.
Or better yet, take a tour…
Taste wines in Lumbarda on a bicycling tour
We took the Korcula bike-and-wine tour to Lumbarda with Korcula Explorer and had the best time.
On this small group tour in the late afternoon, you’ll cycle about 6 miles in total – which is just about right, as you’ll be wine tasting too!
You’ll ride at a leisurely pace along some quiet narrow roads and stone paths in the countryside, past beautiful vineyards and olive groves.
It includes a few hills (walking your bike up is allowed). But the good news is you take a van back to Korcula at the end – no tipsy biking is involved.
You visit two family-run wineries to taste their unique wines and nibbles. Both have lovely views over the vineyards to the sea.
The wine tasting runs the gamut from rosé to white, red and dessert wines (like cherry and lemon liqueurs).
And we thoroughly enjoyed meeting like-minded guests on this tour – along with the bicycling, drinking wine, laughing and learning all about Korcula and Croatia’s wine industry from our English owner/guide, who lives on Korcula with his young family.
Go swimming
Walk a few minutes out of Korcula Old Town to where the boats are anchored, and you’ll find a concrete wharf.
Throw down your towel, put on your water shoes and climb down the ladder into the waiting sapphire Adriatic.
Still yearning for a beach? Walk one minute more, and you’ll find tiny pebble beaches, where the waves slowly ripple ashore.
But wait… there’s more.
Spend the day at Pupnatska Luca Beach
About a 20-minute drive from Korcula Town (you can take a taxi), Pupnatska Luca Beach is touted as the most beautiful beach on the island.
It’s protected from the winds in a stunning cove, where you can sit on a gently sloping pebble beach and float in the clear turquoise water.
There isn’t much shade on this narrow stretch of beach, so rent a sunbed or come prepared. There are beach bars and restaurants for libations and munchies.
Where to stay on Korcula
The Fabris Luxury Inn
We found The Fabris Luxury Inn on the edge of the Old Town absolutely delightful. Plus, it’s only a few minutes away from a pebble beach and the ferry dock.
We booked a luxury courtyard room with a king bed in the Annex building.
It was a large, newly renovated room with fresh white stone walls, polished wooden floors and vaulted ceilings. The website photos don’t do it justice.
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Have your breakfast (it’s included) on the hotel’s lovely outdoor terrace overlooking the yachts moored nearby.
Lesic Dimitri Palace
Just down the street from Marco Polo’s home and the old cathedral in the Old Town is Lesic Dimitri Palace and its Michelin star restaurant.
Housed in an 18th-century palace, each of the six residences is uniquely designed with comfortable elegance in mind. Choose from 1 to 3 bedroom apartments, some with a sea view, all with kitchens.
Also, it’s just steps away from Zakrjan Beach (or Zakerjan Beach), a pebbly swimming spot on the eastern edge of the Old Town.
Aminess Korcula Heritage Hotel
Another Old Town gem of a hotel is the 4-star Aminess Korcula Heritage Hotel.
Built as a hotel in 1912, it’s the oldest hotel in this small town. Together with its chic café, it’s retained the ambience of that olden era.
The 20 boutique rooms come with a fabulous breakfast that you take under flowering trees with a view of the sea. But not all the rooms have a sea view, so check those details when you book.
Where to eat in Korcula
Konoba Adio Mare
This is one of the most popular restaurants in Korcula Old Town.
Konoba Adio Mare at first turned us down because we were 17 minutes late for our reservation. Our table had already been snapped up.
We returned the next night – on time! – and our dinner here was one of the best we had in Croatia.
Think an elegant white tablecloth setting on a rooftop patio. A complimentary starter of tuna paté and charcoal-grilled toast. Grilled catch of the day with a juicy tomato salad – and French fries, of course!
All complemented by perfectly chilled white Grk wine.
Konoba Adio Mare is expensive but worth it.
The service is also perfect, a match of any high-end restaurant’s service.
Konoba Aterina
Konoba Aterina is a pretty alfresco eatery with colorful plastic tablecloths decorating the tables.
The menu is small but the prices are reasonable.
We started with an appetizer platter of anchovies, tuna paté, chick pea hummus, olives, goat cheese, tomatoes and a basket of home-baked bread.
For an entrée, home-made pasta with pesto or tomato sauce is their specialty. Choose your protein to go with it – shrimp or meat.
Lole Wine Bar
We couldn’t snag a table at this side-street gem (it’s very popular). But Lole Wine Bar looked like the perfect place to sample some of Korcula’s amazing wines and nibble on tapas.
Check out the reviews and you’ll see that everyone who goes there raves about the place.
Hvar – Days 6 to 9
Every Croatia island hopping itinerary must include sophisticated Hvar Island. It’s an idyllic blend of old towns, historic villages, incredible beaches and booming nightlife.
Hvar Town and Stari Grad are the two main towns to visit on the island. And they couldn’t be more divergent.
Hvar Town buzzes with billionaire yachts and boats ready to carry revelers after dark to the clubs on the Pakleni Islands to party until sunrise. Loads of fashionably-dressed young people trundle off every new ferry arrival with their rollaway suitcases.
Stari Grad is the opposite, with a quieter and more authentic vibe.
We stayed in Hvar Town rather than Stari Grad because there are more attractions in Hvar and it’s more of a hub for visitors.
Getting from Korcula to Hvar
Ferries run to Hvar Town from Korcula several times a day.
We took the Krilo (Kapetan-Luka) ferry from Korcula Old Town to Hvar Town – a ferry ride of about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Things to do in Hvar
We stayed for almost a week on Hvar, soaking up every moment.
We’ve written a whole guide on what you can do on Hvar. Below are some highlights:
Explore Hvar Town
A Mediterranean gem, Hvar Town is the island’s largest town. It’s a joy to stroll along its streets.
Pop into the teeny 1612 Hvar Theater (the oldest public theater in Europe). And photograph the baroque St. Stephen’s Cathedral with its four-story belltower.
For some exercise, hike up past botanical gardens to the Spanish Fortress looming over the town. You’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping views of Hvar and the Pakleni Islands up top.
At the end of the day, join the party and have sunset cocktails at the Hula-Hula Hvar Beach Bar.
Take a boat ride to the Pakleni Islands
Speaking of the Pakleni Islands, you’ll want to take a boat tour to visit one or some of them. The ride to get there is only some 30 minutes long.
One of our favorite beaches in Hvar is the serene Mlini Beach on Marinkovac Island in the Pakleni archipelago. Lounge under the dappled shade of pine trees and take a dip in the blue blue sea.
Or have a fancy seafood lunch at Palmizana Beach on Sveti Klement, another Pakleni Island.
See the Blue and Green Caves
The Blue Cave is a sea cave on Bisevo Island, regaled for its incredibly blue water color.
Take a shuttle-boat inside the amazing Blue Cave, swim inside the Green Cave and visit Vis Island (or the Pakleni Islands) on this 5-star-rated speedboat tour from Hvar.
Chill at a beach on Hvar
Hvar has no shortage of great beaches.
Two great options?
Walk 30 minutes south from the Old Town to Pokonji Dol Beach, a pine-shaded haven with beach bars and sunbed rentals.
Or embrace the Robinson Crusoe vibe at Robinson Beach, an hour’s hike along the coast (or a quick water taxi ride away).
Where to stay in Hvar Town
Palace Elisabeth
Set in a luxuriously renovated historical building, the 5-star Palace Elisabeth is a heritage hotel and landmark in the center of Hvar Town.
It captures the essence of days gone by, yet it offers the modern luxury we’ve come to expect today. Every room has a view of the Pjaca, the largest square in Dalmatia, or of Hvar Bay.
Heritage Hotel Dea Hvar
This family-run heritage hotel is steps away from everything in the Old Town, yet it’s totally quiet at night.
Nothing is too much trouble for the staff, who are very helpful and kind. Staying at Heritage Hotel Dea Hvar feels like staying with family.
Villa Nora Hvar
Villa Nora Hvar, is another family-run boutique hotel in Hvar’s Old Town. Housed in a former 14th-century palace, its spacious air-conditioned rooms are decorated with antiques.
Nor do you have to walk far for an appetizing dinner – its on-site Lucullus restaurant serves excellent food and wine.
Where to eat in Hvar
Lungomare
Lungomare is a delightful family-run fish restaurant, a 10-minute walk from the town center.
Choose your fish from the ice case. It comes perfectly grilled! We ordered ours with fries and veggies, accompanied by homemade wine.
End with warm crepes topped with cherry jam for a delightful meal.
Bonus: This Hvar restaurant is reasonably priced.
Fig
We loved Fig so much we ate here twice for dinner.
Their must-try flatbread with goat cheese, figs and arugula is a treat, as are the pulled pork chili bowl and the bacon and blue cheese salad.
Fig is a popular spot and doesn’t accept reservations, so be ready for a bit of a wait.
Konoba Luviji
Konoba Luviji offers a lovely rooftop dining experience. Savor traditional Croatian cuisine while enjoying views of Hvar Town’s red rooftops and the beautifully lit Spanish Fortress at night.
Brac – Days 10 to 12
Brac (pronounced “Bratch”) is the largest island in Dalmatia, yet far less glitzy and touristy than the others on this itinerary.
An ideal spot to see an authentic side of Croatia, it’s known for its white stone buildings and its olive oil, which is unique to the island.
Bol, the small resort town where we stayed, is known for Zlatni Rat, a white pebble beach said to be among the best in the country.
Getting from Hvar to Brac
The ferry connection from Hvar Town to Bol was a bit more difficult for us than our other ferry connections.
Jadrolinija canceled our direct sailing at the last minute.
So the only alternative was to take two ferries. First, we went from Hvar to Split with Krilo and then after a couple of hours hanging around at the Split port (no hardship), we took Adriatic Fast Ferries from Split to Bol.
(We could have gone on Jadrolinija from the town of Jelsa on Hvar directly to Bol – a ferry ride of about 20 minutes. But the taxi cost from Hvar Town to Jelsa would have been prohibitive and the scheduled ferry departure at 7:00 am was a little too early for us.)
Things to do on Brac
We stayed on Brac Island for a glorious week and had a jam-packed itinerary.
Our post about the best things to do on Brac has the complete scoop. Meanwhile, here’s a glimpse at some of the island’s must-do activities:
Hike to Blaca Hermitage
Back in the day, when the Turks were invading the Dalmatian Coast, two monks fled to Brac and hid in a cave in the hills. They spent 20 years creating a monastic community before they were given permission by the bishop to build a proper monastery.
And for 400 years, it thrived. Those monks lived the good life.
Their land produced 15,850 gallons of wine and 574 gallons of honey annually, which they traded for some of their most prized artifacts. Things like an 880-pound piano from Vienna that took a team of men eight hours to carry up the trail to the top of the hermitage.
You’ll hike up the same path the monks used for centuries. But your trek will only take 45 minutes to reach the monastery.
Blaca Hermitage is a masterpiece frozen in time and not to be missed.
We booked our excursion with Frane, taking a 30-minute boat trip from Bol to the cove where we started our hike up to the monastery.
Chill at Zlatni Rat Beach
This iconic V-shaped beach is surrounded by so many blues it’s hard to believe it exists in nature.
Imagine aquamarine water flowing into a deep midnight blue, where you can float the day away as if in a dream.
Rent a lounger and umbrella or get a core workout while stand-up paddleboarding, but either way, take your time here. It’s paradise.
Enjoy a jeep tour of the island
We had a blast on our all-day jeep tour with Explore Brac.
Part of the fun was our tour guide. He entertained us with stories about the island, all while expertly navigating the sometimes tricky terrain.
We started driving through the unique countryside of rolling hills and pines dotted with cast-aside slabs of white stone.
Our first stop was the historic Olive Oil Museum. Next, we stopped at an iconic stone church with a tree growing through the roof, and finally, it was on to the highest point on the island, Vidova Gora.
However, the highlight of the day unfolded over the following few hours.
We were driven to what felt like the middle of nowhere, except for an old stone cottage on the water.
There, we swam in the pristine sapphire waters. In the meantime, Andrea, the owner of the company, and her cousin Martin prepared a long lazy lunch of home-made yumminess.
Tastings of local walnut and cherry liquors were followed by freshly baked flatbread with home-made sheep cheese, grilled fish and lamb.
All sourced from the land we were lazing on. It was divine.
So, if you only have a short time, this is a great way to experience Brac.
If you can only spend half a day, see this half-day off-road tour with Brac Off-Road Adventure.
Where to stay in Brac
We stayed in the medieval village of Bol, and so should you. It’s walkable, beautiful and has historical sites to wander through.
What more could you need? A great hotel!
Lucky for you, we’ve got you covered. Stay at the lovely Villa Giardino Bol boutique hotel. The rooms are plush, and having breakfast on the flower-filled terrace made it difficult to leave each day.
As a bonus, it’s only a 5-minute walk to the waterfront and the Stina Winery.
Where to eat in Brac
Ribarska Kucica
Our favorite restaurant in Brac is Ribarska Kucica. (We had dinner here twice.)
It’s very romantic, with a seaside location and traditional European service, white tablecloths and all. Truffle cheese appetizer, fish, grilled lamb chops – it’s all good.
(Mind you, like many restaurants in Croatia, the creamy pasta dishes were too salty for Janice’s tastes, so choose dishes that don’t come with sauces if you don’t like too much salt.)
Mali Raj
Mali Raj is set in a picturesque garden about a 30-minute walk from Bol Old Town, near Zlatni Rat Beach.
It’s highly reviewed. But while we found the food good, it’s not outstanding. Plus it’s quite expensive.
So we’d say go here more for the lovely setting than for an exceptional meal.
Split – Days 13 to 14
Split is the largest city in Dalmatia and the northernmost city in our itinerary. It’s very touristy, so if you can get here in the shoulder season, you’ll be grateful.
Even though it’s coastal, it’s not known for its beaches.
History buffs love Split for Diocletian’s Palace, Klis Fortress and the Salona ruins. We love it for at least 21 reasons…
Things to do in Split
We’ve mentioned we adore this gem of a town… So much so that we’ve gone three times and have written a detailed post of our 21 fave things to do in Split.
Anyway, here are some activities in Split you shouldn’t miss.
Explore Diocletian’s Palace
In 305 AD, the Roman emperor Diocletian commanded an army of slaves to build him a summer villa.
He only wanted the best for his palace. So he used white stone from Brac and marble from Italy, and 12 looted sphinxes were shipped over from Egypt to add a little zhuzh.
Diocletian’s Palace comprises 220 buildings in a 10-acre neighborhood in the heart of Split’s Old Town. This UNESCO site is like a living museum.
Today, about 3,000 people live and work within the palace walls.
It’s filled with trendy cafés, modern boutiques and apartments, as well as historical sites – and it feels more like part of the city (which it is) than a separate independent palace.
Browse the Ivan Mestrovic Gallery
Housed in Ivan Mestrovic’s 1930s neoclassic mansion – a work of art itself – the Ivan Mestrovic Gallery displays some of his best sculptures and drawings.
And seeing as how he was Croatia’s version of Michelangelo, it’s something to be seen.
Before you walk through the museum, watch the film detailing his tumultuous life. The wars and years in exile clearly influenced his art, and you can see it throughout the exhibitions.
Climb up Marjan Hill
If the crowds in Split have you feeling frazzled, escape to the 584-foot-high oasis of Marjan Hill. There are walking trails through the pine forest that will make you forget you’re in a crowded city.
Walk up the stone steps for a 360 degree view of the world below. Then, go to the café here for a nibble and a sip with views of the cruise ships and harbor below.
Take a day trip to Krka National Park
When going to Split, don’t miss the famous waterfalls in Krka. There are seven different falls within this park, and it’s only an hour away from town.
Skradinski Buk Falls is a must, with its collection of 17 cascades and a 148-foot drop into a pool the color of a turquoise crayon.
Roski Slap, locally known as the “necklace” falls, is just as dreamy.
Go in the morning, and you’ll have a little more solitude than when the throngs arrive in the afternoon.
Take a guided tour and taste some olive oil, cheese and wine along the way, or go independently and at your own pace.
Where to stay in Split
Judita Palace Heritage Hotel
Our favorite boutique hotel in Split is a restored 16th-century gem right in the center of the Old Town.
Judita Palace has 19 luxurious guest rooms with elegant furnishings, marble bathrooms and sparkling chandeliers. And nothing was too much trouble for the highly attentive staff.
Hotel Park
A stone’s throw from Old Town, Hotel Park oozes historic magnificence with all the modern luxury you might desire.
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa
If you’ve come to Croatia to marvel at the Adriatic, stay at the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa. Its seaside location is about 1½ miles from the hustle of the Old Town and it’s the ideal respite after a day of sightseeing.
Where to eat in Split
Zinfandel
Zinfandel is a cool little wine bar in Split Old Town. Its wine menu of 10 pages offers more than 60 wines by the glass, and live music is played every night.
Order the warm chocolate cake for dessert – it’s sinfully delicious.
Makarun
Serving tasty local delicacies, Makarun is hidden in a secret passage between Renaissance palaces. Go for the hand-rolled pasta with truffles. The beef carpaccio is also excellent.
Portofino
Hidden between ancient buildings, footsteps from the Cathedral, Portofino is pricey but worth it. The octopus salad, sea bass and crab-and-shrimp risotto are all recommended. Service is excellent too.
More (or less) than 14 days in Croatia?
How many days in Croatia (Dalmatia) should you spend?
Let’s just say you won’t get bored vacationing for two weeks in Croatia!
This trip, we spent three weeks in Croatia – all on the Dalmatian Coast – and there were still islands and places we didn’t have time to visit.
We think our 14-day Croatia travel itinerary is ideal.
But if you have less time, it can easily be adapted for 10 days in Croatia, or even 7 days in Croatia (see below).
If you have lots of time to visit Croatia, then you could head to the romantic city of Rovinj on the Istrian Peninsula, visit Plitvice Lakes National Park and explore the capital of Zagreb. We have this book-marked for our next Croatia trip!
10-Day Croatia itinerary
If you don’t have enough time to experience a full Croatia 14-day itinerary, no worries. You can shorten your time in each Croatian destination.
Here’s what we personally recommend for a Croatia 10-day itinerary:
- Days 1 to 2: Dubrovnik
- Days 3 to 4 – Korcula
- Days 5 to 6 – Hvar
- Days 7 to 8 – Brac
- Days 9 to 10 – Split
If this feels too busy to you, you could eliminate the island of Brac and spend those extra two days on Korcula and Hvar (one more day on each island).
7-Day Croatia itinerary
With a week in Croatia, we recommend basing yourself in just three places – and taking day trips from there (to limit the time spent switching locations):
- Days 1 to 2 – Dubrovnik
- Days 3 to 5 – Hvar or Korcula
- Days 6 to 7 – Split
Best time to island-hop Croatia
June is a great time to visit Croatia. So is September.
They’re not as crowded as the high summer months of July and August. But the sea is warm enough for swimming – perfect, in fact!
It’s possible to visit the Dalmatian Coast and islands all year round.
But ferry services aren’t as frequent in the off-season. (Some routes shut down completely at the end of September and don’t restart until late June.)
And restaurants, bars, clubs and many tours are only open during the tourist season.
And forget about swimming in the colder months. The sea will be just too chilly!
Croatia island hopping yacht cruises
While hiking to the Blaca Hermitage on Brac, we met a hiking guide from Sail Croatia. Then in Split, we toured the elegant Queen Jelena, one of Sail Croatia’s small cruise yachts.
From what we saw and learned, we’d have no hesitation recommending these yacht cruises as a great way to explore the Dalmatian Coast if you’d rather go on an organized group trip.
These are small yacht cruises, accommodating between 32 and 40 guests (depending on the ship) – with outdoor-focused itineraries.
Sail Croatia offers several types of 7-night cruise experiences, including roundtrip hiking-themed itineraries from Split and upscale (“Elegance”) cruises between Split and Dubrovnik.
The Elegance yachts feature spacious ensuite cabins, lovely dining saloons, swimming platforms, lots of lounging space on deck and a splash pool or large outdoor hot tub.
What’s especially appealing is that unlike regular cruise ships (where all meals are included), with Sail Croatia, you go ashore in the evenings for dinner on your own – so you can dine alfresco at different local restaurants.
The advantage to booking one of these cruises is that you’d get to visit several islands without having to plan your Croatia vacation itinerary yourself.
That wraps up our itinerary for Croatia!
There are so many incredible things to do in Croatia. We could have stayed another month without seeing all of this beautiful country!
We hope this itinerary nudges you to start on your Croatia travel plans. Our advice: Get packing and go!
More Croatia travel information
In case you missed them, see our other Croatia travel guides:
- 10 Most Beautiful Croatia Beach Towns
- 17 Wonderful Things to Do in Hvar
- The 15 Best Things to Do on Brac Island
- Visit Trogir: The Tiny Croatian Town Nicknamed “Little Venice”
- 21 Delightful Things to Do in Split
- Visiting Diocletian’s Palace in Split
- 15 Best Dubrovnik Beaches
- Get High! Walk the Dubrovnik City Walls
- 33 Delicious Croatian Desserts You Must Try!
Our top travel tips and resources
Hotels: Booking.com is great for scoring a “wow” hotel – or at least a decent one – at lower rates than the hotel’s own website. We especially like Booking’s flexible cancellation policy!
Vacation homes, condos and rentals: We prefer and use Vrbo (Vacation Rentals by Owner).
Flights: To book the cheapest flights, search on Google Flights or Expedia. (Just be aware Expedia tickets may be non-refundable.)
Airport lounge access: We love (and have) Priority Pass for comfy lounge seats, free snacks and drinks, complimentary WiFi and sometimes even showers and spa services!
Tours: For the best local food, walking and other guided tours, plus skip-the-line tickets to attractions, check out Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and GetYourGuide.
Car rental: Renting a car is often one of the best ways to explore off the beaten path. Discover Cars searches car rental companies so you get the best rates.
eSIMS: Stay connected affordably with Airalo eSIMS covering 200+ countries and trusted by 10 million+ users, including us! (No more huge roaming bills!)
Travel insurance: SafetyWing is designed for frequent travelers, long-term adventurers and digital nomads. It covers medical expenses, lost checked luggage, trip interruption and more. We also have and recommend Medjet for global air medical transportation.
Travel gear: See our travel shop to find the best luggage, accessories and other travel gear. (We suggest these comfy travel sandals for city walking, the beach and kicking about.)
Need more help planning your trip? Check out our travel tips and resources guide for airline booking tips, ways to save money, how to find great hotels and other crazy useful trip planning info.
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Photo credits: 4, 7 to 16, 19 to 21, 24 to 30, 32, 34 to 36, 38 to 40, 42 to 45, 47 to 49, 52, 56 © Janice and George Mucalov, SandInMySuitcase
About the authors
Luxury travel journalists and SATW, NATJA and TMAC “Best Travel Blog” award winners, Janice and George Mucalov are the publishers of Sand In My Suitcase. Between them, they’ve traveled to all 7 continents. See About.
Find destination guides, global food-and-wine stories, luxury hotel reviews, articles on cultural explorations and soft adventure trips, cruise reviews, insanely useful travel tips and more!
Cindy J.
Thursday 24th of August 2023
If we had up to 3 weeks to spend and didn't want to move from lodging to lodging, what recommendations do you have for where we could spend a week in one place? Maybe 3 places for a week each, where we could explore the surrounding area before moving on?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Janice and George
Sunday 27th of August 2023
We'd pick Dubrovnik, Hvar island and Split.
These are the larger hubs, with lots of hotel and restaurant choices. And there are many day tours you can do from each place.
You could have a great 3-week trip in Croatia basing yourself in these three places!
Melanie
Thursday 13th of April 2023
You posted this in a Croatia Facebook group today. I cannot find the post again, but I wanted to thank you. I found this to be very helpful with my trip planning.
Janice and George
Thursday 13th of April 2023
Hi Melanie,
You probably couldn't find the Facebook post on our site, because it's on the Explore Brac Facebook site :-). They told us they'd posted our article on "Things to Do in Brac" on their FB site today.
Anyway, we're happy you found our Croatia article helpful!
Ryan Biddulph
Wednesday 25th of January 2023
What an awesome breakdown for visiting Croatia, Janice and George. Keep up the good blogging work!
Janice and George
Wednesday 25th of January 2023
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed our Croatia travel guide:-).