No Car? No Problem! 3-Day Douro Valley Itinerary
This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase through them, we may earn a small commission (at no cost to you).
We couldn’t explore northern Portugal without staying in the enchanting Douro Valley!
But tackling the wine region’s dauntingly narrow and hilly roads by car? No thanks.
After visiting Porto, we chose instead to take the train to Pinhao – an oh-so scenic (and inexpensive!) journey tracing the Douro River.
This picturesque little village in the heart of the Douro Valley became our home base for three delightful nights. From here, we set off on both guided and do-it-yourself wine tasting, hiking and sightseeing day trips and tours.
Below is our 3-day Douro Valley itinerary, perfect for exploring without a car.
Contents: Itinerary for 3 days in the Douro Valley
Visiting the Douro Valley
The stunning Douro Valley starts about 60 miles inland from Porto (Portugal’s second largest city) and stretches all the way to the Spanish border, covering about 154 square miles.
The Douro River cuts a serpentine path through this fertile region. Steep green hills – blanketed by terraced vineyards and speckled with wine estates – line the river’s banks.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Douro Valley is Portugal’s oldest wine region. It’s a feast for the eyes, as well as for the palate, thanks to the world-renowned port wine produced here.
The “quintas” are where the magic happens. They’re historic wine estates with their own vineyards, and there are over 200 in the area.
Naturally, sampling different ports and other exquisite wines at these quintas is a top draw for anyone visiting the Douro Valley.
Train-accessible towns in the Douro Valley
Public transport in the valley is mostly limited to the train that rumbles along the Douro River from Porto. So for a car-free trip, you’ll want to stay within walking distance or a short taxi ride from a train station.
The three main towns in the Douro Valley accessible by train are:
- Peso da Regua – The region’s largest riverside town, Peso da Regua is the gateway to the Douro Valley (about a 1½- to 2-hour train ride from Porto).
- Lamego – This small pretty city of about 26,000 people (located a 15-minute taxi ride from Peso da Regua) is known for its gorgeous Baroque 686-step stairway to the Nossa Senhora dos Remedios church.
- Pinhao – Surrounded by vineyards and wine estates, this teeny village is located about a 2½-hour train ride from Porto.
Taxis are readily available in all three towns – which was somewhat of a surprise to us!
Why stay in Pinhao?
We settled on Pinhao for several reasons:
- It’s home to a 5-star hotel, the Vintage House Douro Hotel (where we stayed), located just steps from Pinhao’s train station.
- Several wine cellars and restaurants are either within the village or just a short walk away.
- There’s a great DIY hike you can do from Pinhao (the Provesende hike).
- Pinhao is the main hub for hopping on the Douro Valley’s one- and two-hour rabelo boat cruises.
Together, all this adds up to make Pinhao the most convenient place to stay in the Douro Valley – offering easy access to a variety of activities and dining options – if you’re going without a rental car.
Now, if we’d known how simple it is to hail and book taxis, we might have chosen Lamego as our base instead (getting off the train at Regua and taking a taxi to Lamego).
It’s certainly another solid option to consider!
Types of port wine
You’ll want to know this – after all, you’re visiting the Douro Valley to sip plenty of port and wine!
Port is a fortified sweet wine, and to be called port, the grapes must come from the Upper Douro region of northern Portugal.
It comes in three main styles:
- Ruby – Ruby port is aged for three years in large oak barrels, maintaining its fruity flavor and purple color. It matures mostly in the bottle.
- Tawny – Tawny port is aged for 10+ years in smaller barrels, allowing more contact with the wood barrel, giving it a richer, nuttier, caramelized taste.
- White – Made from white grapes, white port is usually younger (aged for two to three years). It ranges from dry to sweet and is often served chilled or in cocktails.
Recently, rosé port has joined the mix. Not aged, it’s fresh, fruity, lightly sweet and has a delicate pink hue.
Getting to Pinhao by train
Our car-free Douro Valley adventure kicked off with that scenic train ride from Porto we mentioned earlier.
The scenery
The train line hugging the Douro River (Linha do Douro) runs for about 110 miles from Porto all the way to Pocinho, near the Spanish border.
The Douro train journey is an experience in itself – considered one of the most beautiful train rides in Europe. We couldn’t agree more!
Stay awake for this one… Because after rolling through the outskirts of Porto, the train plunges through its first tunnel, and then the scenery shifts – becoming more rural and enticing.
It meanders through the countryside for a while, then joins the river’s path and snakes alongside it. Below, river cruise boats and small pleasure day cruisers glide along the smooth water, which sparkles like glass in the sunlight.
It’s said the train goes through 20 tunnels, under 30 bridges and passes 34 stations on the full journey from Porto to Pocinho.
We can’t say for sure! But we certainly passed through several tunnels and across multiple bridges on the shorter stretch to Pinhao.
And then, you pull into Pinhao’s charming train station.
Built in the 19th century, it’s postcard-famous for its blue, white and yellow azulejo tiles. Take a moment to admire the intricate tile panels, illustrating how port wine is made, before moving on.
Train carriages
Both ways, we traveled on the regular MiraDouro train.
The train is older, without first-class seating, and the windows can be a little grimy at the edges. But these classic carriages – built by Swiss firm Schindler – have wide windows that slide down, giving you a clear view and a refreshing breeze.
Despite its age, the ride was perfectly comfortable! We packed our own snacks and water (and we don’t recall seeing a café onboard).
(From June to October, the Douro Historical Train also runs between Regua and Tua.)
Practical train information
- Train from Porto: There are 10 to 12 trains a day from Porto to Regua. Several of these continue on to Pinhao and Pocinho at the end of the line. (Pocino is about a 3- to 3½-hour train ride from Porto.)
- Porto train station: The train leaves from the main Porto Campanha station. But some start at the Sao Bento station in the Old Town, before going to Porto Campanha then to Regua.
- Seat tips: For the best views, sit on the right side of the train when leaving Porto and the left side when returning. (There’s no assigned seating and it’s all one class.)
- Cost: We paid a little under 12 Euros (about $13 USD) each for the ride from Porto to Pinhao.
- Train schedule: Here’s the Porto/Regua to Pocinho train schedule.
- Comboios de Portugal: This is Portugal’s state-run train company. See the website.
Train schedule: Porto (main Porto Campanha station) to Pinhao
Departure from Porto:
- 7:25 am
- 9:25 am
- 1:25 pm
- 3:25 pm
- 5:25 pm
Return from Pinhao:
- 8:07 am
- 12:12 pm
- 2:09 pm
- 6:13 pm
- 8:25 pm
Tip: Double-check your train departure time and station, as schedules can change.
We booked our tickets to Pinhao online some three weeks in advance. But upon arriving at the Sao Bento train station (where our train was supposed to leave from), we discovered the schedule had just changed that day, and the train was leaving instead from Porto Campanha.
With help from a kind station official, a quick taxi ride got us there just in time!
3-Day Douro Valley itinerary (car-free)
Day 1 – Rabelo boat cruise and wine dinner
Welcome to Pinhao!
If you’ve taken the train that leaves around 9:25 am, you’ll arrive in Pinhao about noon.
After checking into your hotel and dumping your bags, how about a relaxing rabelo boat cruise to see the Douro Valley’s vineyards and terraced hillsides from the perspective of the river?
A rabelo boat is a traditional Portuguese wooden cargo boat originally used to ferry barrels of port wine from the Douro Valley to Porto.
Today, the wine is transported by truck, and the boats are mainly used for sightseeing cruises, with Pinhao being the starting point for these short cruises along the Douro River. They depart from the pier just below the Vintage House Hotel in Pinhao.
To best experience the serene beauty of the river and valley, consider picking a cruise on a boat that’s electric or solar-powered (i.e., one that’s quiet).
Several companies offer boat trips from Pinhao.
Magnifico Douro
Magnifico Douro is one of the largest boat companies, offering frequent one- and two-hour cruises a day.
While some boats are electric, others are motor-powered and noisier.
The fleet varies in size, with some boats holding up to 100 people. Ideally, you want to be on a smaller boat or one that limits capacity, so you have room to move around and take pictures.
It’s a good idea to pre-book in advance in summer and peak periods, because the boats do fill up. (You can book your two-hour Douro River cruise here.)
Daurum Solar Boats
Daurum Solar Boats operates special solar-powered boats (carrying just 10 passengers) for a peaceful experience on the river.
They offer one-hour shared boat trips (rated 5 stars), along with private trips.
Their cruises include a tasting of two fine wines from Adega de Favaios as you soak up the beauty of the vineyard-clad landscapes. (The village of Favaios is renowned for its white fortified Muscatel wine.)
Anima Durius
For private boat tours on the river, Anima Durius specializes in a variety of trips ranging from one-hour cruises and sunset sailings with drinks and snacks to full day tours.
They operate three boats – a spacious sailing yacht (10 guests), a classic wooden “James Bond” motorboat (6 guests) and a stylish motor yacht (12 guests).
Their trips are also highly rated; you can book your customizable boat cruise here.
Wine dinner at Cozinha de Clara (in Quinta de la Rosa)
Cozinha de Clara is an excellent winery restaurant located in Quinta de la Rosa, about a 20-minute walk from Pinhao.
Opting for a table on the outdoor terrace, we enjoyed stunning river views. Alongside a delightful wine tasting, we savored chargrilled Iberian black pork with truffled mashed potatoes – indulgent and bursting with flavor.
The restaurant prides itself on using vegetables from its own garden and sourcing ingredients locally whenever possible, adding to the freshness and authenticity of each dish.
Day 2 – Hiking and wine tasting with Douro Walks
Today, we highly recommend booking a day tour with Douro Walks, led by Antonio, a local who calls the tiny non-touristy village of Ervedosa home.
He picked us up from our hotel, and our six-hour hiking and winery tour started with a scenic drive along a stretch of National Road 222, famed for its narrow winding curves.
Along the way, Antonio explained how grape quality varies by altitude, with D grapes (higher up, less sun) being lower quality than A grapes – but either way, old vines are always excellent.
In Ervedosa, we took a loop hike along village trails, past terraced vineyards with hand-built stone walls and through fields of yellow wildflowers.
After working up an appetite, we arrived at Antonio’s centuries-old stone house for lunch.
Inside, it was cool and a welcome retreat from the hot sun outside.
We ate at a picnic table set with a tablecloth, porcelain plates and silverware. His wife, Silvia, had prepared a simple but divine meal – homemade red wine, bread, olives, prosciutto, cheese, tomato and onion salad, and sardines, finished with molasses cake and port!
After lunch, Antonio drove us to Quinta da Gricha for a private wine tasting. Recently bought by Churchill’s, this historic quinta has some vines nearly 100 years old and, here, they still stomp grapes the traditional way – by foot.
It was a wonderful day! Antonio’s passion for the Douro Valley shone through, and we thoroughly enjoyed learning more about the region’s wine and port from him.
Day 3 – Hike from Provesende to Pinhao (maybe train to Pocinho too)
Morning hike
On your third day, take a taxi from Pinhao to Provesende – a scenic 30-minute ride (21 Euros or $23 USD) with gorgeous valley views.
Then comes the fun part – hiking back down to Pinhao! Indeed, hiking is one of the top things to do in the Douro Valley for outdoor lovers, and this two-hour trek was a highlight of our trip.
Starting in the tiny village of Provesende, the trail winds along cobblestone paths, past vineyards and through fields of wildflowers – all with postcard-worthy valley views.
It’s well sign-posted. We were worried we’d get lost, but Antonio (our Douro Walks guide from the previous day’s adventure) had assured us we’d be just fine on our own – and we were.
You’ll cross the road twice about a third of the way down, and then follow a quiet road with little traffic for the last section of the hike into Pinhao.
Tip: Pack water, as there are no shops or cafés along the trail down. Also bring a sun hat, as there’s not much shade.
Afternoon
After our hike, and with the sun blazing, we happily spent the afternoon lounging by our hotel pool.
But if you’re up for more adventure, hop on the train from Pinhao to Pocinho and back. We hear the most breathtaking train scenery arguably kicks in after Pinhao.
The ride to Pocinho takes about an hour. There’s apparently not much to see there, but it’s only about a 30-minute wait for the return train.
There are around five departures and returns daily (double-check the schedule for your dates).
So you could, for example, catch a mid-afternoon train (about 3:44 pm) and return from Pocinho at 5:12 pm – and be back in time for dinner in Pinhao.
Train schedule: Pinhao to Pocinho
Departure from Pinhao:
- 9:49 am
- 10:47 am
- 11:43 am
- 3:44 pm
- 7:51 pm
Return from Pocinho:
- 7:08 am
- 11:10 am
- 1:10 pm
- 5:12 pm
- 7:26 pm
Dinner in Pinhao
You have a couple of good options for dinner tonight.
We picked Veladouro, a casual no-fuss spot that serves generous portions of grilled fish and meat at reasonable prices. It’s popular, so make reservations.
For a more upscale experience, try Bomfim 1896 with Pedro Lemos, recommended by the Michelin Guide.
Their 6-course tasting menu looks tempting, but you can also order à la carte – think roasted smoked quail or octopus with giant white beans and kale.
Where to stay in the Douro Valley without a car
Vintage House Douro
Set in a former 18th-century wine estate with beautiful gardens, the 5-star Vintage House Douro Hotel has charm. Most of its 50 spacious rooms feature small river-view balconies, each furnished with two tiny wrought-iron chairs.
We loved the inviting pool overlooking the Douro River, the extensive breakfast buffet (which even includes champagne to go with your fresh OJ) and the knockout views.
But the hotel, which is not inexpensive, could do with a little love. Rooms feel a bit outdated (our carpet smelled musty) and service fell a tad short, from missing pool towels to forgotten housekeeping.
Still, there’s no denying its fabulous location – the reason we chose to stay here. Right on the river, it’s just steps from the Pinhao train station and walking distance to several restaurants, cafés and wineries.
Quinta de la Rosa
About a 20-minute walk from the Pinhao train station, Quinta de la Rosa offers clean comfortable rooms at about half the price of Vintage House Douro.
This quinta has a small swimming pool for lazy afternoons and an excellent restaurant, Cozinha de Clara (where we enjoyed dinner our first night).
Note: Bed sizes are double or single – so if you’re after a king bed (which we always prefer), you’re out of luck here.
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
Perched high above the Douro River, Quinta Nova is about a half-hour’s drive from Pinhao. (They’ll pick you up from the train station.)
A Relais & Chateaux property, it’s set in a restored manor house beside the original 1765 winery. The 11 rooms come with vineyard views.
Breakfast is served at a large communal farmhouse table.
There’s a small pool, along with well-marked hiking trails that weave through the vineyards and beyond.
And for dinner? Its highly regarded resto, Terracu’s, serves up regional dishes paired with Quinta Nova’s own wines – because, when in the Douro, wine is always on the menu!
Lamego Hotel & Life
Lamego Hotel & Life is a stylish retreat on the edge of Lamego (a 15-minute taxi ride from Peso da Regua). Set amid its own orchard and vineyard, it offers 90 sunlit rooms with sleek contemporary décor.
Lounge by the vast valley-view pool, relax at the spa and dine at its full-service restaurant and tapas bar.
Recommended by the Michelin Guide – and with easy access to Lamego’s bars and restaurants – it looks like an enticing alternative to staying in Pinhao.
Last words on enjoying 3 days in the Douro Valley (car-free!)
Our Douro Valley travel guide proves you don’t need a car to experience this wine paradise!
Take the train to Pinhao, where boat cruises, vineyard hikes and wine tastings are all within easy reach – whether on foot, by taxi or with a guided tour.
Would we do it again? Absolutely! Next time, we might stay in Lamego, but no matter where you go, touring the Douro Valley is an unforgettable experience.
So, are you ready to hop on the train, sip port by the river and wander through the vineyards?
See our other Portugal travel guides
Pin this Douro Valley trip guide!
Our top travel tips and resources
Hotels: Booking.com is perfect for scoring a “wow” hotel – or at least a decent one – at lower rates than the hotel’s own website. We especially like Booking’s flexible cancellation policy!
Vacation homes, condos and rentals: We prefer and use Vrbo (Vacation Rentals by Owner).
Cruises: CruiseDirect offers amazing deals on cruises (including Holland America, Viking Ocean Cruises, Seabourn and other lines we’ve reviewed).
Flights: To book the cheapest flights, search on Google Flights or Expedia. (Just be aware Expedia tickets may be non-refundable.)
Airport lounge access: We love (and have) Priority Pass for comfy lounge seats, free snacks and drinks, complimentary WiFi and sometimes even showers and spa services!
Tours: For the best local food, walking and other guided tours, plus skip-the-line tickets to attractions, check out Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and GetYourGuide.
Car rental: Renting a car is often a great way to explore off the beaten path. Discover Cars searches car rental companies so you get the lowest rates.
eSIMS: Stay connected affordably with Airalo eSIMS covering 200+ countries and trusted by 10 million+ users, including us! (No more huge roaming bills!)
Travel insurance: SafetyWing is designed for frequent travelers, long-term adventurers and digital nomads. It covers medical expenses, lost checked luggage, trip interruption and more. We also have and recommend Medjet for global air medical transportation.
Travel gear: See our travel shop to find the best luggage, accessories and other travel gear. (We suggest these comfy travel sandals for city walking, the beach and kicking about.)
Need more help planning your trip? Check out our travel tips and resources guide for airline booking tips, ways to save money, how to find great hotels and other crazy useful trip planning info.
If you make a booking or purchase through our site, we may earn a small commission (at no cost to you). Thanks!
About the authors
