Kandy Travel Guide: 9 Best Things to Do and Travel Tips
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Kandy is a city that jolts your senses – sometimes rather rudely!
One minute, we were strolling beside serene Kandy Lake, watching ducks paddle across the water. The next, we were plunged into a whirl of tuk-tuks, exhaust fumes and honking horns.
A bustling hill city of about 100,000 in central Sri Lanka, Kandy is a curious mix of beauty and chaos, old British colonial influences and deeply rooted Buddhist traditions.
We spent several days exploring the city – and found there’s a lot to draw you in beyond the initial bustle.
Chances are UNESCO-listed Kandy will feature on your Sri Lanka itinerary too. It’s part of the island’s fascinating Cultural Triangle and the traditional starting point for the famously scenic Kandy-to-Ella train journey.
And then there’s its star attraction – the extraordinary Temple of the Tooth.
So what should you see and do while in town?
Here’s our Kandy travel guide to the temples, gardens, cultural experiences and other places we think are most worth your time.
Kandy at a glance
The quick scoop
- How many days in Kandy? – We recommend 3 nights (2 full days)
- Don’t miss – Temple of the Tooth and the Royal Botanic Gardens
- How to get around – By tuk-tuk! This customizable one-day private Kandy city tour with a licensed English-speaking guide gets rave reviews
- Best area to stay – In the leafy hills, just outside the busy center
- When to visit – December to March.
- Is Kandy worth visiting? Yes – but expect traffic and urban chaos along with the cultural treasures
Sleep in style
We stayed in many lovely hotels in Sri Lanka. For Kandy, these two stand out for a deluxe stay:
- The Elephant Stables – An intimate boutique hotel in a beautifully restored colonial bungalow, with an infinity pool overlooking Kandy’s leafy hills
- Kings Pavilion Luxury Hotel – Also a peaceful retreat, with nine spacious modern rooms and suites, an outdoor infinity pool and sweeping mountain views

Contents: What to do in Kandy, plus travel tips
9 Best things to do in Kandy
1) Visit the Temple of the Tooth

Touring the splendid Temple of the Sacred Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) tops the list of things to do in Kandy.
Indeed, as one of the best places to see in Sri Lanka, the temple is typically on every visitor’s Sri Lanka itinerary!

Following Buddhist temple etiquette, we took off our shoes and deposited them at the front entrance.
George wrapped a sarong around his bare knees (it kept falling off and puddling around his ankles, attracting a few giggles from onlookers).

A moat encircles the temple complex, in which we spotted a giant water monitor, larger than an alligator, swimming around fish in the dark muddy water.
Buddha tooth relic temple

Built in the late 16th century, the Temple of the Tooth was expanded upon in 1802.
The original structure was kept as a shrine to hold the sacred relic of the Buddha’s left tooth.
The tooth is the holiest relic in Sri Lanka – legend has it that the person guarding the tooth has the authority to be the rightful king.
As we admired the gigantic elephant tusks guarding the shrine room, throngs of local and Western pilgrims and visitors, along with gaggles of giggling school children dressed in white uniforms, streamed by.
Some pilgrims meditated quietly in corners; others laid lotus flower offerings on a table in front of the shrine.
A few worshippers found a seat on the marble floor wherever they could – perhaps just to breathe in the incense and fragrance of the flowers or to enjoy the cool reprieve from the heat outside.
Buddhist statues and paintings

Moving beyond the shrine room, we entered a very interesting hall with some 22 Buddha statues.
Made from ivory and other materials, they’ve been donated by Thailand, Japan and other countries.
Decorative paintings on the walls also detail the travels of the tooth over the years.
It was first rescued from Buddha’s funeral pyre in 500 BC. Then 900 years later, it was taken to Sri Lanka, hidden in the hair of a princess.
More recently, the tooth – guarded by various kings – was moved from city to city to keep it safe from attackers.
In addition, a shiny gold “new” Buddha (about 6 feet high) is displayed in a modern shrine at one end of the hall.
Raja Museum, Kandy

Before leaving the Temple of the Tooth, we popped into the museum dedicated to Raja the Tusker.
Raja is the celebrated elephant who served at the temple for more than 50 years.
Each August, he carried the tooth out in a casket in a glorious procession during the annual Festival of the Tooth.
To honor Raja when he died, he was stuffed and installed in his own museum.
He now stands behind glass, surrounded by old photographs – some show Raja beside prime ministers proudly holding on to his tusk; others show him resplendent in his gold coverings when out in the annual procession.
Raja died in 1988 at the grand old age (for an elephant) of 75. And apparently he’s the only known elephant who has been taxidermatized.
Details
- Hours – Open daily year-round from 5:30 am to 8:00 pm
- Best time to visit the temple – Morning alms (5:30 am to 7:00 am), mid-day alms (9:30 am to 11:00 am) or in the evening (6:30 pm to 8:00 pm)
2) Admire the views from the giant Buddha

You can’t miss the giant Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha statue towering over Kandy.
Built in 1992, the gleaming white Buddha sits atop a hill beside a Buddhist monastery and stands more than 88 feet high.

Climbing up the stairs behind the Buddha, we were treated to a glorious Kandy view point with panoramic views of the city.
Note: There’s a small fee to visit, and you need to remove your shoes as you approach the Buddha.

3) Wander the Peradeniya botanical garden

When you need an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, head to the Kandy botanical gardens.
They’re located in the town of Peradeniya which abuts Kandy, hence the name of Royal Botanic Gardens Peradeniya.
Dating back centuries, the Peradeniya gardens at one time could only be visited by Kandyan royalty.
Later in the 1800s during colonial rule, the British imported plants from London’s famous Kew Garden and formally established the botanical gardens in 1843.
The gardens are so large (147 acres) and beautiful, you should allocate a few hours to exploring them.
Ideally, go first thing in the morning when it’s still relatively cool. (We visited the gardens on our second sightseeing Kandy day; we were too pooped to include the gardens on our first day!)

What to see?
An extensive collection of orchids, a fabulous cannonball fruit tree, avenues framed by towering palms and so much more!
The gardens are home to 4,000 different plant species and more than 10,000 trees.

Many cute macaque monkeys entertained us too.
They seemed to be having lots of fun doing somersaults on the lawns and swinging from tree branches!

It was especially fascinating to watch how they worked together to get food.
One mother monkey, baby clinging to her chest, sat under a tree, while another high up in the branches above, picked fruit then threw it down to her so she could eat.

Also engrossing were the thousands of large fruit bats which flew in black clouds through the air and then settled in trees to hang upside down while flapping their wings.

Details
- Hours – Open year-round from 7:30 am to 5:00 pm
- Cost – 1,500 LKR for foreigners (about $8.50 USD)
4) Pay your respects at the Kandy War Cemetery

This exceptionally well-maintained cemetery (looked after by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission) honors soldiers who died during WWII defending Sri Lanka (plus one soldier who died during WWI).
During the Second World War, Kandy was the home of the Allies’ South East Asia Command.
There are 198 identified casualties buried at the Kandy War Cemetery.
Wandering around the manicured grounds blooming with flowers, it was quite sad to read the tombstones of the many men and women who died young – just in their early 20s.
Most were British. But there were also East Africans, Sri Lankans, Italians, Indians and French. We spotted several Canadian gravestones too.
Details
- Where – Kandy War Cemetery
- Hours – Open year-round between 7:00 am and 4:00 pm
- Cost – Free
5) Tour the Geragama Tea Factory

Tea and Sri Lanka go hand-in-hand – the country is one of the world’s biggest tea producers.
Interestingly, it was coffee, not tea, that flourished first in Sri Lanka.
In the early- to mid-1800s, Ceylon coffee was hailed as the best in the world. But the coffee industry came to a grinding halt when a leaf disease known as “coffee rust” wiped out the coffee plantations.
And so tea plants were introduced, and the rest, as they say, is history!
Located just outside Kandy, the Geragama Tea Factory (also known as the New Giragama Tea Factory) is one of the oldest in Sri Lanka.

On a tour, we learned how the tea pickers pluck the leaves, saw the cleaning and processing of tea, and tasted various teas.
“White tea” – which is minimally processed and made from the youngest buds – is considered the premium tea and believed to have even more health benefits than green tea.

Our tour of the Giragama Tea Plantation felt a bit rushed, however.
Perhaps that was because we packed it in at the end of our first day of sightseeing in Kandy.
Also, we enjoyed a much longer, more indepth tour of a tea plantation in Ella after we left Kandy. Ella is higher in the hills and smack-dab in “real” tea country.
If you’re visiting Ella (or nearby Nuwara Eliya) in Sri Lanka, you could probably save your tea touring for then and skip the Giragama Tea Factory in Kandy. But if not, then this Kandy tea factory is definitely worth while.
6) Stroll around Kandy Lake

Built in 1807 in the heart of the city by the last king of Sri Lanka, Kandy Lake (or Bogambara Lake) is lovely to stroll around, especially at sunset.
Quacking ducks and perhaps even monkeys will be your companions.
The small island in the center of the lake is said to have been connected to the king’s palace by a secret tunnel and used for swimming and bathing by his harem.
The walk around the lake takes about an hour.
7) Watch a Kandyan dance performance

For a colorful dose of Sri Lankan culture, catch a traditional Kandyan dance show.
These lively performances are a feast for the senses – pounding drums, swirling costumes, gravity-defying leaps and plenty of twirling. Dancers mimic peacocks, cobras and elephants, while acrobats spin plates and pull off some impressive stunts.
There’s real history behind all that twirling and drumming. Some Kandyan dances date back centuries to ancient healing rituals performed by shamans.
And, yes, today’s shows are geared to visitors. But they still offer a fascinating taste of an authentic centuries-old art form.
A few venues around Kandy stage shows in the late afternoon and early evening. One of the best known is the Kandy Lake Club – where the hour-long cultural performance packs in a dozen or so traditional dances, along with drumming and fire.
And just when you think it’s all over, out come the glowing coals!
Barefoot fire walking, anyone? It makes for a suitably sizzling finale.
Details
- Where – Kandy Lake Club, 7 Sangamitta Mawatha
- Hours – Shows are held daily from 5:00 to 6:00 pm (you should be seated by 4:45 pm).
- Cost – $20 USD p.p. for reserved tickets and front or premium seats
- Book – Kandy Lake Club Cultural Dance Show tickets
8) Take a hike in the Udawattakele Forest Reserve

We unfortunately didn’t have time to walk through this wild urban jungle in the city.
But, like the Royal Botanical Gardens (#3 above), the wildlife sanctuary and forest garden makes for another great escape from Kandy’s hustle and bustle.
Several walking loops wind their way through Uudawattekele Forest Reserve.
Keep any eye out for monkeys, barking deer, turtles and even snakes!
Budget about two hours to hike most of the park.
If it rains, be aware you may encounter leeches.
9) Browse the Kandy Central Market
For a taste of everyday Kandy life, duck into the bustling Kandy Central Market in the heart of town.
The two-story market is stuffed with stalls piled high with tropical fruit and vegetables, spices, rice, dried fish and other local staples. You’ll also find tea, clothing and a smattering of souvenirs.
It’s not a Kandy must-see. But if you’re nearby, it’s a fun place to wander for 30 minutes or so, snap some colorful photos and see where Kandyan locals actually shop.
How many days do you need in Kandy?

You can see Kandy’s main sights in one full busy day. But if your trip allows, we recommend spending two full days in Kandy.
That gives you enough time to visit the temples, gardens and other highlights without racing from one attraction to the next.
We spent three nights in Kandy, giving us two full days to explore – which felt just right.
How to spend 2 days in Kandy
Here’s how we’d divide up your sightseeing:
- Day 1 → Temple of the Tooth → stroll around Kandy Lake → lunch → Big Buddha and viewpoint → Kandyan dance show
- Day 2 → Royal Botanic Gardens → Kandy War Cemetery → Udawattakele Forest Reserve or Kandy Market
Only have one day in Kandy?
You can still squeeze in the highlights. Focus on the Temple of the Tooth, Kandy Lake and the Royal Botanic Gardens. If you have the energy, finish with a Kandyan dance show in the early evening.
Or let a licensed local guide show you around! This private one-day Kandy city tour by tuk-tuk is tailored to your interests – and gets rave reviews from English-speaking visitors.
Sri Lanka travel tip
While we had a driver/guide who chauffeured us around the country, we arranged for him to leave us in Kandy, so we could visit Kandy on our own then take the train to Ella.
In Ella, our driver picked us up again to continue with our circle tour of Sri Lanka.
We highly recommend this plan, as one of the highlights of a Sri Lanka visit is take the train between Kandy and Ella – one of the world’s most spectacular train rides!
How to get around Kandy

Tuk-tuks are hands-down the best way to get around Kandy.
The city’s streets are chaotic. There always seems to be something under construction, roads can be potholed and traffic is a crazy mix of buses, trucks, scooters and gazillions of feisty tuk-tuks weaving around each other – with plenty of enthusiastic honking thrown in.
One perky little blue tuk-tuk we spotted had this slogan painted on the back: “No seatbelts. No airbags. But God is with us.”
That pretty much summed it up!
I (Janice) confess I found some rides a little hair-raising. George? Far more relaxed.
But there’s no doubt tuk-tuks are fun. They’re cheap, agile enough to zip through Kandy’s traffic and, well, exhilarating!
For longer trips outside the city – like the Royal Botanic Gardens – you can also use a taxi or private driver.
Where to stay in Kandy?
We were a little disappointed with our Kandy B&B. Here are a couple of top-rated places we would have preferred:
The Elephant Stables



Once home to a prominent Kandyan family, The Elephant Stables is an intimate boutique hotel in a beautifully restored colonial bungalow. Elephants were once kept in the gardens – hence the name.
You’ll find just a handful of individually styled rooms with four poster beds, colonial Art Deco touches, tropical gardens and an infinity pool overlooking Kandy’s leafy hills.
It’s a peaceful little retreat from the bustle of Kandy, yet the Temple of the Tooth and other main sights are just a short drive away.
Kings Pavilion



Tucked away in the hills about 1½ miles away from Kandy’s center, the Kings Pavilion Luxury Hotel is another small boutique hideaway. Its nine rooms and suites range from about 325 sq. ft. to 1,000+ sq. ft., many with private balconies or gardens.
The look is more contemporary than Elephant Stables, but there’s plenty of Sri Lankan character. Rooms have high ceilings, rich wood furnishings and paintings of Kandyan dancers – plus fabulous views over the surrounding green hills.
There’s also an outdoor infinity pool for cooling off after sightseeing and a restaurant serving both Sri Lankan and international dishes.
Where to eat in Kandy?
After full days of sightseeing, we weren’t the most adventurous in going out to eat at night. We ended up hitting the same restaurant – Slightly Chilled Lounge & Sunset Bar – on two of the three nights we stayed in Kandy.
Run by a British bloke and his Chinese wife, it’s a casual open-air rooftop hangout with terrific views of the city’s twinkling lights at night.
The deep-fried shrimp, cashew chicken and other Chinese-style dishes are tasty. And you can get beer, cider and gin-and-tonics too.


Best of all? Slightly Chilled was close to our B&B and (thankfully) just a short tuk-tuk ride away.
Note: Places close to temples don’t sell alcohol, so if you want a frosty beer with your meal, check first before sitting down at a restaurant near the Temple of the Tooth.
Best time to visit Kandy
The peak season is December to March. That’s when the weather is dry and cooler, with temps ranging from 22C to 30C. It’s the best time to visit Kandy.
August – when the grand Festival of the Tooth (Kandy Esala Perahera) occurs – is another popular time to visit.
The wet season is between October and November, when Kandy experiences the Maha monsoon. This is the least desirable time to visit.
Here are good pins for Pinterest!


Our top travel tips and resources
→ General trip planning: TripAdvisor is a helpful starting point, with loads of user reviews on hotels, restaurants and things to do.
→ Hotels: Booking.com is our go-to for scoring a “wow” hotel – or at least a decent one – often at lower rates than the hotel’s own website. (We especially like Booking.com’s flexible cancellation policy!) You can also find excellent discounted rates on Expedia, especially for hotels in the U.S. and Mexico.
→ Vacation homes, condos and rentals: We prefer and use Vrbo (Vacation Rentals by Owner).
→ Flights: For the best flights, we search on Google Flights first. Expedia and Kayak are then perfect for snagging the cheapest tickets. (They’re often non-refundable, though, so for more flexibility, we book directly with the airline, even if it costs more.)
→ Airport lounge access: We love (and have) Priority Pass for comfy lounge seats, free snacks and drinks, complimentary WiFi and sometimes even showers and spa services!
→ Tours: For the best local food, walking and other guided tours, plus skip-the-line tickets to attractions, check out Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and GetYourGuide.
→ Car rental: Renting a car can be a great way to explore off the beaten path. Discover Cars searches car rental companies for the lowest rates.
→ Travel insurance: SafetyWing is designed for frequent travelers, long-term adventurers and digital nomads. It covers medical expenses, lost checked luggage, trip interruption and more. We also have and recommend Medjet for global air medical transportation.
→ Travel gear: See our travel shop to find the best luggage, accessories and other travel gear. (We suggest these comfy travel sandals for city walking, the beach and kicking about.)
→ Need more help planning your trip? Check out our travel tips and resources guide for airline booking tips, ways to save money, how to find cool hotels and other useful trip planning info.
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Photo credits: Hotel photos courtesy of the respective hotels
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